Briggs only runs on partial choke, muffler glows red

[JonCraig]

Homelite Generator that sat out in a barn or under a carport for who knows how many years. I tried rebuilding the carb, but it was all corroded and a lost cause. I bought a cheapie china carb (I know, I know...). Now I can get the engine to run, but only with the carb on ~80% choke. It dies on full choke. The muffler is glowing red, which I believe to be an indicator that I'm running lean. Problem is, when I turn the lower screw CCW much more than 1/8 of a turn, the engine dies. I even tried opening up the adjustment *while* slowly opening up the choke (thinking maybe I was putting in too much gas). Still dies.

This is one of those "briggs updraft" type carbs. Any help would certainly be appreciated!

Briggs 194417
Type 0107
Code 90112010

[acscolo]

Possibilities -
Running lean: Check for air leaks at intake and carb gasket, since it's a Chinese carb remove it and clean it again
Mouse nest on cooling fins and inside cowling
Late ignition timing: partial sheared flywheel key
Leaking exhaust valve

[JonCraig]

Found my issue. Was definitely running lean. Turns out upon assembly whoever put the hi-speed needle in rammed it hard into the main jet. So hard, in fact, that when I was trying to turn the needle CCW, I was loosening the whole orifice tube/main jet/whatever nomenclature you want to call it. I assume that my 1/8 turn til it died was enough to unseat the jet and completely stop the carb from sucking fuel through the jet. Hence why it fell on its face.

I don't like using chinese carbs. This is the 2nd one I've ever used, and both times I've had to correct an assembly problem. I guess I can't complain for the price, but I know that I regularly see forum posts telling guys to just buy a whole new carb when they have fuel troubles. They say that since a kit is $10, and a new carb is $15, it makes no sense to rebuild the OEM carb. For me, I only buy a new carb when the original is too far gone. For example, on this generator, everything was coated with that white corrosion and/or rust. The needle tips were corroded such that they didn't even make a good tip anymore. Hence why I decided to go for a whole new carb.

For me, if a kit will fix a real, name-brand carb, that's the way to go. Cuts down on headaches, I believe. YMMV, of course.

[bobodu]

Quite honestly...I would not expect an OEM to be adjusted out of the box..... I have one of those carbs on an old Simplicity that needs adjusted almost every time I run it.