Briggs Generator

[lefty]

So after sitting for a while, the gasket appears to have taken on it's original size and shape. Am I ok with reusing?

[KE4AVB]

If it was in my shop it would get replaced as that one tends to give problems if reused. Even a nick can cause problems.

As cleaning the carburetor if you 're be doing this type often I highly recommend getting an ultrasonic cleaner. This you would have problem that carburetor cleaners cause because you would be using soap and water as the cleaning agent along ultrasonic sound waves.

[lefty]

Thanks KE4. I've been trying to do research on those for a while now but to be honest, I'm having trouble figuring out the size and type for my application. Do you have any recommendations?

[KE4AVB]

When I started using them I went with a Kendall 2.5 liter heated model, it seems to fit most small carburetors. The main problem I had with it was the limited timer. Later I upgrade to a 6 liter more powerful unit as I am getting into the ATVs carburetors and was needing a larger tank for them. I think several of the guys here are using the 2.5 liter unit from Harbor Fright, my current unit is still a Kendall unit. The only problem than the size of the first unit was the cooling fan gave some problems.

Many of the fellows are using the DTI solution but personally I am just using Dawn and water mix with fairly good results though I am started using a 12.5 pH soap lately as it is non residual soap. Might explain why it is taking 30-60 minutes to clean some carbs but I not complaining.

One thing of note. Don't expect it to be a miracle clean all machine as there will times that you need to do a little cleaning just with any other cleaning method. I have had jets that would not clean unless the clog is partially open.

[Fulltilt]

So after sitting for a while, the gasket appears to have taken on it's original size and shape. Am I ok with reusing?

No, man, come on, use some common sense! You are trying to rebuild the guys carb, ALL the O rings, seals and gaskets need to be replaced. As was mentioned before, the main jet needs to fit snugly in the tower/tube. If not, you need to replace the O ring or the whole jet.
Also, if it uses the steel inlet pipe/elbow, it is probably corroded/ rusted also, and needs to be thoroughly cleaned out, else you will have debris breaking loose an possibly causing problems with the inlet needle/seat. On brass seats, I usually burnish the seat with the old doobie pad trick.
Personally, i have no use for an ultrasonic cleaner, I much prefer the old fashioned chemical dip and wires. I usually just use wires, my stainless toothbrush, and carb spray.
To be brutally honest, with your limited scope of experience/ knowledge, you'd be better of studying basic small engine repair and carbs in particular, rather than spending money on an ultrasonic cleaner.
http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/ just one of many resources avail.




To be honest, you'd be bucks ahead to just replace the carb...

[KE4AVB]

Personally, i have no use for an ultrasonic cleaner, I much prefer the old fashioned chemical dip and wires. I usually just use wires, my stainless toothbrush, and carb spray.

Apparently you don't don't much 2 cycle work Fulltilt which nearly half of my work. You just don't away $150 carburetor because just need a simple cleaning. The dip and most spray cleaners will destroy the delicate check valves and if you wire probe clean all the tiny holes just asking to destroy one too. Yes on this particular there are junk clones available available from China but an ultrasonic cleaner most times all I need to replace is the bowl gasket and jet o-ring (under $7 plus the cost of the water, 2 Tbsp of soap, and 30 of electricity @ 200 watts). Most times I don't even to replace the compressed paper intake gasket as they expand close to normal in the ultrasoninc cleaner.

Matter of fact I just cleaned and repair a WT on the PP295 that will cost him $2.50 in parts plus an hour of my time of course I had to change the oil pickup tube and the fuel line during this time. The replacement carburetor is around $26.00 cost. This way he still have the OEM carburetor and not a troubling clone that may or may not work properly.

To be brutally honest, with your limited scope of experience/ knowledge, you'd be better of studying basic small engine repair and carbs in particular, rather than spending money on an ultrasonic cleaner.

Even you Fulltilt had make a few mistakes learning to walk, first you had to learn to crawl; unless, all that knowledge was simple poured into your head when you unscrewed your head checking why it didn't rattle when they shook you.

Yes Lefty has limited experience but is learning and it better to get off on the right foot than making those mistakes I did when I first started. Yes a good ultrasonic is around $75-$100 in the size he needs but is well it in the long term as he will save on the costs of new carburetors he will not to buy. There is several other benefits too. First he is not exposed to hazardous chemicals, the waste product is definitely less hazardous to the environment. Many places now charge a hazmat fee disposal of the chem dip. Of you can be one those that believe man is NOT damaging our environment.

You can do all the reading and still not be able to do repairs without practical experience. Working on old clunkers are some the best ways to learn as if you mess up there is no great lost. My initial 2 cycle practical learning was on the truckload of unwanted equipment that another shop was getting rid of. I fixed and sold 3/4 of the equipment. So there was days that it took all day repair one but I chalk that time to the learning curve.

[lefty]

Thanks Fulltilt for the advice. But for me, I'm still in a diagnosing stage. I clean the carb well. Then I reassemble and see if I can get it running. If I can, I know I'm on the right track. I'll then go through the machine inspecting, and then call my friend and recommend parts for replacement. I'll also consult with the forum. I'll let him decide what he wants to pay for. Although he doesn't work on small engines, he was an auto mechanic before he became disabled. He also has experience working on quads and so forth.

I do reference outdoorpowerinfo daily. I've studied the carb models I've worked on. The first thing I do when I get a machine is download all of the documentation on the machine, the motor and parts schematics. I study them and keep them on file. I also watch any videos I can find and forum posts that pertain to the issue. Then I dig in, but given my inexperience, I like to make sure I'm on the right track before I go spending a lot of the person's money. I don't want to rebuild or replace the carb just to find out I was on the wrong track. Plus, this is the first carb of its kind I've worked on. So I didn't want to go pulling too many parts out right away. If the machine already ran, maybe I would approach it differently. But I always like to at least get a no start running before I start spending money. Maybe that's the wrong way to do it but I'm comfortable with it at this point in my journey.

Once I cleaned and assembled this one, it started on the first pull and ran like a top for a 1/2 hour. I ran it off of my auxiliary fuel tank (not sure if that's what you call it but it's a little tank I can hang from above and it has a fuel line and shut off). As I stated in a prior post, the fuel filter/shut off was junk and the main tank is out of commission right now. So I'll be ordering that filter / shut off now. So I'll call my friend and recommend a rebuild or replacement but for this particular owner, he may decide to just run it. I wouldn't argue with him because he understands the technology and the risks.

[Fulltilt]

As far as diagnosing goes, one of the first things I do with a no-start four stroke unit is remove the air cleaner, open the choke, open the throttle and give it a shot or two of carb spray. If it fires off, then you know it will run, right?
Also, on lawnmowers, I always check the condition/level of the oil while the customer is still there, and thoroughly chastise him if all black, nasty, or way low. (as most of them are)
After that, I always tip the mower over and check for a bent crank. Just scratch a mark in the deck off the blade tip and rotate the blade and see where the opposite tip lines up with the mark.
i usually do that, or at least check the blades condition while the cust. is present also.
Just quick checks, but they work.

[lefty]

That's so funny. I do that with oil too. I look at the oil and then I look at them with a very disappointed look on my face. No words...just the look. It's so satisfying.

Good tips. Thanks.