starting/charging/battery on brigg 28 ohv

[38racing]

just getting started on this unit for a friend. engine is on ariens 1440h with electric clutch. it's a repower as he blew rod day he bought it used. original was also 28 series and it only as dual charging system on both engines. he's been plagued by restarting problems. i am about to start tests but thought i share my first observation. battery was new last year and tested good last year. he did get it started once before bringing it to me. so battery reads 12.6. i rotate engine backwards away from tdc. try to start and flywheel moves an inch and stops. battery now reads 11.7. come back later battery reads 12.6. try again and same thing. I can see on the meter the voltage gaining back from the 11.7 .does this bring one specific failure to mind before I start my diagnosis?

[Luffydog]

Can you take the plugs out and spin over by hand more than an inch?

[38racing]

Can you take the plugs out and spin over by hand more than an inch?

Actually I could turn by hand with plug in. And I had asked him about gas in oil. His unit has low tank and pump. So I went out to take a look. He had said end of positive battery cable broke and he just has wires clamped by bolt. So I replaced the wire( slightly smaller wire). I tried to start and now starter spins but does not engage. Battery voltage 10.10. (dead cell?). So then I realize that I thought he had bought a big CA battery at Canadian tire for this mower . But battery in it was a 170 CA from Carquest. I bought several of these a year or two back because they had them with a rebate that made them dirt cheap. So I am guessing he got it from me. I have a dead one just like it on my battery bench. So I pulled it and will charge and load test. Meanwhile I put in a battery from one of my riders and it fired right up. Getting 13.4 from the charging system. I did also notice that the engine mounting bolts were loose again. Whether it is a factor in anything the battery ground is to the engine at a shroud bolt. And I checked his no load max rpm. It was 3180 , so I adjusted governor spring to bring it up to 3400. Don't know if that will improve charging. I don't know if I will have time to verify amperage before he wants to cut some grass. It's the unit I want to put my re-wound stator on to.

[KE4AVB]

38, This is very similar to exercise I posted earlier this. High resistance electrical connections along with a loose ground. If you were checking voltages in some of the circuits you may had some crazy readings.

Now I would check that electric PTO current draw to be on the safe side as I have seen them partially shorted and still work. Matter of fact I had a JD737 with one that was drawing 16 amps which why the charge light was coming on at idle. The clutch shouldn't be drawing more 7 amps max with 3-5 amps being the norm.

Also I assume you do know the difference between CA and CCA ratings and hoping you meant CCA as if CA then it is defined too small in my opinion. I usually install no smaller than 230 CCA on most of smaller rider engines. The reserve time is going to be low on that 170 CA battery as it be dropping to about 130 CCA capacity if not lower and won't take long to have the voltage output drop too low.

Also a battery with high internal resistance with can check good voltage wise until loaded.

CA = Cranking Amps at 32F
CCA = Cranking Amps at 0F

[Luffydog]

Talking about clutches. I have had 2 this week a G5 and G3 go bad and both of them still be working.

[38racing]

yes I understand the CA and CCA. Pretty sure 170 was CA so CCA would be even lower. Hard to believe that new mowers come with these . I try to get 410 CA/350 CCA but they are not cheap and with battery quality these days may not last long either.

[KE4AVB]

Oh I know this all too well. I got a local auto parts selling expensive batteries. I thinking they getting close to $60 for a 230 CCA battery. They are failing after only 1-2 use where the Duracell batteries I getting from my local source are holding up very well. I know one of them (a 350CCA) has in use for 4 yrs on a JD737. Now they not a cheap as Tram-law's $30 batteries but are lasting longer. Just sold a 230CCA for $40 minus the 10% senior citizen discount. I know of course across border the prices are higher though.

And yes I have been seeing those MTDs with those small amperage batteries here too. I test one the other day, the rating was for 195 CCA according the label and it actually tested @ 205 CCA after a year's use.

[KE4AVB]

Talking about clutches. I have had 2 this week a G5 and G3 go bad and both of them still be working.

Luffy, Have you tried any those Extreme brand aftermarket clutches. I know my distributor is now carrying them; though, the last one I ordered directly for less than the distributor's price. This mainly was because the distributor sales didn't have their act together at the time and was unable to cross the TCA15800. They seen to be very well make. So far I only installed two of them and haven't had any complaints.

[38racing]

Can I test clutch amps while engine not running or should it be running? I'm hoping there is an easy accessible connector.

[KE4AVB]

Yes you can it just be tad lower due the decrease input voltage but if more than 6-7 amps than it bad. Many of the newer Husqvarna's are using a 7 amp fuse in the PTO circuit to help prevent circuit damage to the rest of the mower electrical.