zama model ?

[38racing]

I have a zama carb on a weedeater . I see a C1U. Looking up carbs on zama there is a secondary part , a letter and number, like C1U-W7D. But only other number I see on carb is 104H and that's not on any lists. Hopefully the multi number kit I have covers the carb I have.

[KE4AVB]

You may need to get the light to strike it just right as the number give is a date or assembly code depending where you see it.I have seen these number nearly invisible or completely gone. Also if you give me the make and model of the weedeater I might be able to figure out what was originally on it. There is only 200 or 300 zama kits.

[Fulltilt]

Hopefully the multi number kit I have covers the carb I have.

It will.

[KE4AVB]

It will.

Psychic?

Zama kits are not like Walbro kits.They are usually have a fairly tight model range. Currently I only have 36 different Zama kits in stock as I only stock the ones I have used and 6 are just for the C1U's that I noted, might be others as I am no longer trying keep up with the model number to kit info. I use the Zama website for that.

38 if you happen to come across the Ruixing H110, I can give the Zama part numbers that you would need to make up the kit for it. Only one change needed to be done and is to use the Zama metering lever setting instead of the Ruixing setting.

[bgsengine]

Note the "black ink" in the photo as to model number - which is why I never flush them off with carb cleaner until they have been identified. Often have to use a otoscope to puzzle out the very faint etching or ink left-overs OTOH if it is a weedeater brand, you can often buy a whole new carb for a little more than the price of a repair kit (dunno about pricing in Canuckland but here , kits might sell for $14 and a new carb for $23 from Weedeater)

[KE4AVB]

Note the "black ink" in the photo as to model number - which is why I never flush them off with carb cleaner until they have been identified. Often have to use a otoscope to puzzle out the very faint etching or ink left-overs OTOH if it is a weedeater brand, you can often buy a whole new carb for a little more than the price of a repair kit (dunno about pricing in Canuckland but here , kits might sell for $14 and a new carb for $23 from Weedeater)

I do forget sometimes that I am only paying $5-$8 for Zama OEM repair kits even then I may only need a metering diaphragm and gasket which I stock separately if carb has an undamaged Mylar fuel pump diaphragm.

As you say you got be careful with what you clean with. I wish they stamp the numbers like manufactures did one time. There have been lately engine or model decals had vanished since the last time I worked on a piece of equipment and only because I had recorded from a previous job I could reference them.

[38racing]

Had the parts. But it will prime and only run on 90% choke.ugh

[KE4AVB]

You did set the metering lever height and change the internal filter screen?

[38racing]

You did set the metering lever height and change the internal filter screen?

the screen yes but not the height. I usually leave it where I found it assuming it ran ok at one time. If someone brought it as it runs now I have had some success just mixing 50-50 gas seafoam to 40:1 oil and run on choke and let sit and repeat several times and that will get it running ok again with maybe a carb needle tweak. May try both.
Also need to consider this:
"Note: It is often un-necessary to remove the welch plug. Test for plugged progression holes by spraying carb cleaner into the L needle hole. If cleaner sprays out the progression holes there is no need to remove the welch plug."
I sprayed in but didn't really check output at progression holes.
I see lever height "should be almost flush with gasket flange". Nice and precise. Does 'almost' mean a little above or a little below lol.

[KE4AVB]

I haven't remove a welch in a long time since I use an UC and I have never use carb cleaner on them. The rubber check valves are just too delicate for me to chance the carb cleaner. Replace welch plug only when necessary and then I use the matching punch IE triangle for triangles and the bango for the bango welch plugs.

As for the lever height it is level with carb body casting or no more than .3 mm below (0-.3 mm). I normally use my Z tool or a straight edge when setting the height on the Zama. There is a few that is set differently with the level set at the floor of the metering chamber.