White Outdoors lawnmower question...

[dart451]

Try this as I have seen it to work on some engines that had worn governors. Doesn't work if the governor has failed.

Do that static adjust as normally then adjust it with the throttle vane a tad short of wide open (around .020"). Sometimes it works as it condensates for worn flyweights pivot points. I got several Kohler Courages that would not stop surging until I tried this.

So you think this would work even though it doesn't matter where I twist the governor shaft on a static adjustment KEAVB? I've gone to one extreme (clockwise) and then (counter clockwise), with zero change...

[KE4AVB]

Maybe you don't understand how the static governor adjustment is done as one way completely disable the governor function.

To do a static governor adjustment you first move the throttle to full while watching which way the governor arm moves. Then you loosen the retaining screw (bolt) continue turning the governor shaft in the same direction until it stops. After which while hold the linkage and governor shaft in this fully advance position tighten the retaining screw. This way as governor flyweights move out it pushes throttle back toward idle postion as the engine slows the flyweight then back in allowing the throttle to open back up. It is delicate balance that governor the speed against the governor spring tension. A governor spring that has a too higher spring rate will cause the engine to run at a above the designed speed as flyweight are not able to easily overcome the additional tension.

And if someone has totally put the wrong spring on it then that could be a problem that is being overlooked. This where a tach can come in handy as to what is going on.

[Fulltilt]

No sir, the motor was not running when I performed the static adjustment...lol And, just to make sure...I tried a static adjustment the opposite of what the book says, doesn't make a bit of difference where the governor shaft is adjusted...

Why did you do that? Did you think the book was wrong????
By turning the shaft the wrong way, you may have aggravated/caused the situation, as in re-read my last reply.

[dart451]

No, I did the static according to Honda seeing as this is a Honda clone. I don't think I aggravated anything...I just tried the opposite direction is all...it's now back correctly, it made absolutely no difference. (also marked the shaft/arm to make sure) So, you might find this interesting. I took off the spring to the governor arm to give it zero tension. I started it again and what I've noticed is, it really likes to run smoothly with full choke or 3/4 choke. To me, this means a lean mixture and I have already taken the carburetor apart and cleaned it very well. The carburetor was not very dirty at all but I also ran my welding wires through the small orifices and blew everything out, (also removed main jet and cleaned). So, even if the governor was trashed inside, the motor should still run without the chock vane closed especially while I hold the governor in position. I do believe KE4AVB is correct that the springs might be too strong...

[Fulltilt]

No, I did the static according to Honda seeing as this is a Honda clone. I don't think I aggravated anything...I just tried the opposite direction is all...it's now back correctly, it made absolutely no difference. (also marked the shaft/arm to make sure) So, you might find this interesting. I took off the spring to the governor arm to give it zero tension. I started it again and what I've noticed is, it really likes to run smoothly with full choke or 3/4 choke. To me, this means a lean mixture and I have already taken the carburetor apart and cleaned it very well. The carburetor was not very dirty at all but I also ran my welding wires through the small orifices and blew everything out, (also removed main jet and cleaned). So, even if the governor was trashed inside, the motor should still run without the chock vane closed especially while I hold the governor in position. I do believe KE4AVB is correct that the springs might be too strong...

So why play with the carb, when you need to figure out the governor ?
The gov. spring anchor is adjustable by simply bending the tab towards the gov. arm to decrease tension, ( and RPM ), or away from the gov. arm to increase tension ( and governed rpm).

While too heavy a gov. spring can indeed increase the RPM to a higher than normal level, at rest, with no load, you can bend the tab to compensate. The RPMs just wouldn't be manageable while actually operating / cutting grass. Sorta like some gov. arms that have several different spring holes for different tension/conditions.

There's only one spring listed in the IPL, there may be a couple diff. ones avail from Honda, don't know.

[KE4AVB]

the motor should still run without the chock choke vane closed especially while I hold the governor in position.

Yes it should.

I gather from initial post you are working on an engine that someone has messed up so when this happens just anything can be expected to be wrong. I have gotten in engines were held together with bailing wire for the governor. I even got in one where the blade was duct taped on.

Very frustrating to work on these at times as you got figure what the other party did to mess it up first, fix that, and then get to the real problem. In case like this I prefer to my own hands on the problem as I have my own way of troubleshooting problems. All you can do right now is take a step back, I would try to resolve the carburetor issue first and then the governor but that is just me.

[bgsengine]

Well then, obviously the customer needs a new mower, right?
They don't last forever. Trash can it.

As an aside, show the customer the IPL what shows the gov. and cam, etc as not avail.
Collect your diagnosis fee and send him to Lowes for a new mower. Simple , huh?

As an aside aside, blame it on the other shop! What sometimes happens is, the caveman "tech" is messing with the governor arm and overspeeds the motor, the internal paddle is being held off the spool, and the flyweights extend too far, usually resulting in getting mangled by the cam gear, ( thus my mention of the cam earlier).

I agree - that is just what I'd suggest myself at this point unless you plan to tear down the engine completely (and take your chances if you will even be able to find the gaskets, internal parts, etc) and with any luck, getting it back together correctly and then solving the carburetion issue (probably need a new carburetor, if all your cleaning has not solved it as yet) don't forget to check the flywheel key too.. after all that is said and done and your customer is into it for what $120 plus your labor (unless you plan on giving away your work for nothing) , they may as well just buy a new mower for 80 bucks more and toss the old one in the scrap yard.

[dart451]

I really appreciate all the feedback! Yes, although the engine races and points to a governor problem, it also seems to like running with the choke on...so...I have ordered a new carburetor. No sense taking carb apart again and cleaning...I did a thorough cleaning first off. I will let you know what I come up with with the new carb...the saga continues...lol

[KE4AVB]

Dart, Sound like me. I hate it when equipment tries to out do me. I just stubborn enough to fight until I know exactly what the problem is. I don't like not knowing.

Yes when it a customer's machine there is a time to call it quits. But if the customer then donate the equipment to me just for me to learn on then I go back at it until I know for sure what is what. If it wasn't for this I would not know the things I know today. At one time it would take me a half day or longer to fix a 2 cycler, now it usually around an hour provided no else has in it before.

[dart451]

Dart, Sound like me. I hate it when equipment tries to out do me. I just stubborn enough to fight until I know exactly what the problem is. I don't like not knowing.

Yes when it a customer's machine there is a time to call it quits. But if the customer then donate the equipment to me just for me to learn on then I go back at it until I know for sure what is what. If it wasn't for this I would not know the things I know today. At one time it would take me a half day or longer to fix a 2 cycler, now it usually around an hour provided no else has in it before.

Yes, I'm retired and I do not live on the money I make fixing lawnmowers. I do like to find out what is going on with a machine. Like I said previously, we have a repair facility in the area that has an extremely bad reputation in the closest city to me. They're the only game in town except for me but I live 30 miles in the boonies! So, I get most of the locals here. The last tractor that was previously worked on by this un-reputable business came back running on one cylinder...customer was told sometimes they run like that! I also have a moto...If I can't fix it, you owe me nothing! Yes, I do lose money once in awhile but I figure that's just part of building a reputation... If I have problems with something, I always refer to you guys! You have always been helpful and usually point out things that I don't think about. I only wish I could be as helpful as you guys! I do try though...thanks again to you all!