gcv160 gjaea stl1

[acscolo]

To keep the Honda carb parts lined up when reinstalling the carb, I bought threaded metric rod at my favorite hardware store, cut it to length, and then cut screw driver slots at the ends to help screw them in and take them out. No need to crank down on them. They are only there to line up the carb and attending gaskets. Then save them and put in your carb repair tool box as you will not doubt use them time and again when installing Honda carbs.

[38racing]

To keep the Honda carb parts lined up when reinstalling the carb, I bought threaded metric rod at my favorite hardware store, cut it to length, and then cut screw driver slots at the ends to help screw them in and take them out. No need to crank down on them. They are only there to line up the carb and attending gaskets. Then save them and put in your carb repair tool box as you will not doubt use them time and again when installing Honda carbs.

Canada is officially metric but I expect I won't find metric threaded rod at any local hardware store.

[38racing]

at fastenal.ca I found only imperial. our canadian tire had 2 1/2 in m6 bolt which could likely make work. but in my rod can I found a foot long 5/16 bolt. philips pan head and 4 in of thread. no idea what it's from. cut 2 pieces4 in long and threaded them m6x1.00.

[38racing]

now back to the mower. replaced pull starter but still no start. I then checked compression. 70 psi . put new plug in and it started on carb cleaner and ran fine with choke off. if I moved choke towards where he had it then it started to flood out. now I cut with it and like I said he has it set to lowest cut level. in mulching mode it definitely slows. if I put on the discharge chute it runs much better. just a hint of slowing. so I still wonder if it's a power issue not from the carb but the valve train or even rings although I don't know if it uses any oil. manual shows a special tool for adjusting valves. don't know if it's required.
Update: found video, special tool not really required.

[NO0C]

This works great and a lot easier than what you probably saw in the video.

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=509&hilit=+TOOL#p3798

[38racing]

So the saga continues. So after it appearing to work better today I start it and it stalls out if I open choke fully. UGH. I am also working on a GCV160 on a mower retrieved from local dump. I found that it had a filter in the tank outlet. So now I'm thinking my neighbour's could be fuel supply issue from plugged filter. Nope, he had different tank output with no filter and good flow right out his shutoff. Now I got the dump one running fine although again runs even stronger with the cutting height up a position or two. So I swapped carbs. Dumper runs fine on his carb and his runs fine on the dumper carb. At least for now. And runs better if I up the cutting height. I'll see what tomorrow brings. Since NO0C checks valves every year maybe I should do that next. Not looking forward to dealing with rtv gasket .
On the cutting height. The grass I cut at his low height was brown/yellow but grass cut at higher height was nice and green. Going to suggest that he cut higher and if he insists then cut again lower and make sure it does not grow too much if he insists cutting that low. His B-in-law next door is a low cutter too. LOL

[NO0C]

That's the reason I upfitted mine to a cast cover and a real gasket.

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1438&hilit=+cover

My engine owner's manual says to set valve clearance every 100 hours.

Not looking forward to dealing with rtv gasket .

[KE4AVB]

IF going with RTV, follow the cleaning and curing instructions. All oil must be removed from the areas of contact or the RTV will not setup properly. I have been trying out the Permatex Surface Prep but don't like it being in a spray form. Currently I using applying to Q-tips and cleaning the contact areas with the Q-tip. Now most of the auto parts stores here don't even carry the surface prep. I had to get mine through Amazon.

On the Kohler Courage singles the oil in rocker area tends to puddle at the bottom with if not removed will prevent the RTV from setting; therefore, the valve cover leaks in this area. Since I have been making sure there is no oil and waiting overnight before starting the engines I have had few problems. I also wait twice the recommended setting up time before final torquing.

[38racing]

So today the neighbour's started fine and cut fine in my wheel position, not a hint of hesitation. Interesting though is that I broke the mounting on the shutoff valve so it hangs out loose. His is a right angle unit so had a 90 bend from it to the carb. Now hanging loose it has less bend. Could have been a fuel restriction? And to further muddy the waters I was putting a new plug in the dumper one so tested in it. 95 psi on 5 pulls. (remember neighbour's was 70) . So I re-tested his and got 105 PSI. Warmer day? Babysitting all day tomorrow. He'll get it back Saturday.

[38racing]

and another little annoyance. Both engines have the serial numbers etched on the block. May as well be in Japanese. I decipered parts I think. Wonder if a single dot above 2 dots above 3 dots above 2 dots above 1 dot is an I?
edit: I just found this on engines.honda.com
Manuals are free to download.

Need help finding your model number?
Back to models list
Serial Number Application/Fuel Type Language(s)
GJAE-1000001 through 9999999 Download
GJAEA-1000001 through 9999999 Download
GJAPA-1533530 through 9999999 Download
GJARA-1000001 through 1533529 Download
GJARA-1533530 through 9999999

Would that be the complete set of GCV160 models? although says US models.
And on my engines there are more letters after the 7 digits.
Obviously I have them wrong since I thought digits 6 and 7 on one of them was JJ. Maybe it's 00.