Which Briggs And Stratton Starter?

[sblg43]

I am going to put a new starter on a Briggs 42A707-1653-01 V Twin engine.

However, when I look up the part number for a new starter, there are different "Housing Lengths" available. I measured the "housing" (the black cylinder part of the the original starter) and it measures 3-3/4". That length is not an option. The options are, 3-5/8" or 4-3/8".

I want to assume the 4-3/8" is the starter that I need but I am looking for some kind of confirmation. What say you?

[bgsengine]

I believe they have consolidated down to just 2 starters for those engines , one for flyehwel flywheel with steel ring gear (different tooth count) and one (more common) for flywheels with aluminum or plastic ring gear

[KE4AVB]

I would think it would be the 3-5/8" as it is within 1/8" and within a reasonable margin of measuring error. That why when I have measuring I use a different part of the tape as tips can be misplaced during the tape assembly, like starting at 10".

[38racing]

I'm thinking that model is an opposed twin , not V-twin . Do you have the starter off? It can be done without removing the flywheel.

[sblg43]

I'm thinking that model is an opposed twin , not V-twin .

My mistake. It is an opposed twin.

That why when I have measuring I use a different part of the tape as tips can be misplaced during the tape assembly, like starting at 10".

I agree. I usually use a different starting point on the tape - like the 3" mark.

Both units have 16 plastic teeth. I think that either one will work. If the longer one is too long, I may have to shave off a little sheet metal.

I took a chance and ordered the longer unit. At only $25 from fleabay, it's worth a shot. I will keep you posted.

Thanks all.

[sblg43]

So the above image is the original starter that is still on the engine - it measures in at 3 7/8".



The new starter measures in at 4 1/4". A full 3/8" difference.

Not too big of a deal, I will probably just trim a little sheet metal off the heat shield.

[KE4AVB]

From your images I have a piece of advice. Take an el cheapo 7/16 or 11mm open end wrench and grind it flatter so it can be slipped on the nut between the starter cable and the starter to hold the nut when tightening the other. This helps to prevent the breaking of the new starter brush plate. Use this setup anytime you need to remove this cable on older starters too.

I actually got several wrenches ground down this way for other projects. Actually I probably need to finish researching and buy some regular service wrenches as I currently need a couple 47mm ones to work on a 2001 Kawasaki Prairie in the shop.

[sblg43]

Take an el cheapo 7/16 or 11mm open end wrench and grind it flatter so it can be slipped on the nut between the starter cable and the starter to hold the nut when tightening the other. This helps to prevent the breaking of the new starter brush plate. Use this setup anytime you need to remove this cable on older starters too.

I can see what you mean. I will do just that.

In this case, the previous owner did a hack job trying to fix the Murray tractor that this engine came off of. He finally gave up and gave it to me and I pulled the engine and scrapped the rest.

Now I want to get this engine running and put it in my John Deere 116.

[KE4AVB]

You should have seen the hatchet job someone did on the steering of a Murray I had in here last year. They used electrical conduct lock nuts and burn them up welding them in place. All along while the bushing is still being available for less than $15. The customer went through the roof (I since fixed the hole ) when I gave the price to undo the damage and fix it right.