Valve Clearance

[lefty]

Briggs OHV
110P02 - 0003 - F1
Code: 13123057
QPT - quiet power technology

I read a prior post similar to mine on the forum regarding this but I'm still confused. I'm finding different specs in the OHV manual from the download section, outdoorpower and briggs engine spec chart. This is on a craftsman push mower model 917.375450.

Any advice? Outdoor power shows an 110000 series as an L-Head and then shows only three specific in the series for OHV, none of which match mine. Briggs spec chart is the same. I found the spec for 110000 in the repair manual but they are different... intake 003-005 and exhaust 005-007. I think this engine was manufactured in 2013, which may be why I'm having trouble in the manual? looks like it was published in 2009.

Thanks

[NO0C]

By downloading the Operator's Manual from the B&S site, it's clearly an OHV engine and valves (both) are set cold at .004 - .008" (.006")

Might as well go straight to the horse's mouth to get info.

[KE4AVB]

NO0C, Need to correct you as following is the specs taken directly from Briggs Power Portal which I would go by since OM are not always up to date or for that matter even cover engine they are sent with.

Model Series 110P
Power Lbs/Ft of Torque 7.25
Engine Series 725
Displacement 175
Oil Capacity 20 oz (0.6 l)
Valve Configuration OHV
Flywheel Torque 60 lb/ft (81.5 Nm)
Governor Arm Torque 40 lb/in (4.5 Nm)
Carb Mount 45 lb/in (5.0 Nm)
Plug Gap 0.03 in (0.75 mm)
Intake Valve .003-.005 in (.08-.13 mm)
Exhaust Valve .005-.007 in (.13-.18 mm)
Idle Speed 1750
Air Gap .010-.014 in (.25-.36 mm)
Flywheel Puller Part 19069
Flywheel Holder Part 19619
Connecting Rod Torque 100 lb/in (11.5 Nm)
Sump Torque 85 lb/in (9.5 Nm)
Head Torque 140 lb/in (16.0 Nm)

Lefty, The date code is read YYMMDD##. The last two Aplha-Numeric is the manufaturing plant code.

[lefty]

Thanks Guys.

[NO0C]

Sorry, KE4AVB. I do not have access to BPP and only can use what I can get my hands on. There were multiple publications available and every one of them gave the same specs.

Not sure why B&S can't get their poop in a group.

[lefty]

This is a neighbor's machine. The machine would start and run but after warm, it would not restart. He called me over and I tried to start it but it wouldn't. And it would kick back on the rope every full pulls.

So I checked the valves and they were way off. Gaps way too wide...like .009 and .012+. So I adjusted them to spec provided by KE4.

I got it to start after several pulls but it runs like crap. It was also pretty easy to pull...maybe too easy. Given that it ran with the gaps so wide before I can't imagine that even if I'm off a bit, it would run this crappy...but maybe I'm wrong. Should I be checking for a partially sheered flywheel key next? Or should I try NO0C's specs?

[NO0C]

So I checked the valves and they were way off. Gaps way too wide...like .009 and .012+. So I adjusted them to spec provided by KE4.

COLD?

I got it to start after several pulls but it runs like crap. It was also pretty easy to pull...maybe too easy. Given that it ran with the gaps so wide before I can't imagine that even if I'm off a bit, it would run this crappy...but maybe I'm wrong. Should I be checking for a partially sheered flywheel key next? Or should I try NO0C's specs?

I find it hard to believe that would help at all.

[lefty]

Yes cold. The initial event took place last week. When I made the adjustment, the machine hadn't run for at least a week. Do you mean the adjustments wouldn't make a difference or the flywheel key?

[NO0C]

Sorry for the confusion. The valve clearances shouldn't make that much difference.

Now, the flywheel key, definitely worth a quick peek.

No admission from the owner that he hit something stubborn?

[lefty]

I wouldn't be surprised. His 12 year old son mows the lawn.