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Intek twin cold start

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Intek twin cold start

Postby hanz63 » Tue Sep 26, 2017 11:51 am

We've all adjusted choke control cables to fix the extended cranking cold condition on Intek twins. Has anyone run into issues otherwise on these? Otherwise a great running engine. I have the assumption that if a quick burst of carb spray fires them up after it has sit 1.5-2 or so months, the choke closes, the fuel stabilized when fresh and they run great otherwise - all is normal. More of a general question rather than a specific engine. It seems late summer after everything has sat for a while (or over winter) I run into this periodically.
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Re: Intek twin cold start

Postby lee » Tue Sep 26, 2017 7:44 pm

I have the same issue with this engine. I turn the fuel off and let the carb run dry when I'm done with it. If I wait say a month or two before i use it I will be cranking on it for a while before the vacuum fuel pump is able to get fuel back into the carb bowl. Once it gets fuel it will fire up and run fine. Since my gas tank is in the rear under the seat the vacuum fuel pump has a hard time pulling fuel out of the tank, through the long line, through the fuel filter, and up to the pump with just the small crankcase pressure pulses during cranking. I was thinking about putting the fuel filter on the pressure side between the pump and carb to see if that might help. Other than that all i can think of is replacing the vacuum fuel pump with an electric 2 psi or so fuel pump. I'd like to hear other solutions to this problem as well.
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Re: Intek twin cold start

Postby KE4AVB » Wed Sep 27, 2017 6:57 am

Sounds like a fuel vaporization problem which is nothing can be done about. I see this on several smaller engines here where the tanks are bone dry after a few months.As Lee said it best to install a fuel shut off and run the engine until the carb is dry. Now some carbs won't be completely and can gum up doing this.

I also had a problem with several Courages this year with fuel boiling in the fuel lines as they changed out to Summer blend fuels late this year here. I ended up having to buy a temp gun to find the problem. The fuel in the lines were reaching 140+F. This was mainly caused by the 400F air off the muffler blowing over the line. The solution was to insulate the fuel line.

I did ran into a Kawasaki FH680D-CS04 this year that had the same problem but a lot worse as it would do it overnight. At first I thought it was a choke problem but it was closing fully. Found very little fuel in the carb the next day. Needed to crank until the carb is refilled. I thought I had a leaking carburetor but I could not find any leaks during three bench tests. The fuel stayed in the carb during under normal work bench temps, it was just the hot engine was flashing off the fuel.

Personally I don't use starter fluid instead opting to just the regular fuel the engine runs on or some 2 cycle mix. Starter fluid should only be sparely use on diesels, even they get hooked on it. Starter fluid washes away the cylinder lubricating oils. On the Ford service truck I used at work back in the late 90's the starter fluid actually damage the injector pump from the back pressure.
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Re: Intek twin cold start

Postby hanz63 » Wed Sep 27, 2017 6:56 pm

Well, my theory on much on these is that the fuel in the carb bowl is exposed to the atmosphere and over time the more volatile components of fuel waft away leaving fuel less ignitable by a cold engine. That seems to be why you can drain the fuel from a bowl that has sat there a few months and the fuel in the line and tank behind fires it up on its own. I used to drain walk behinds that sat over winter, but if there is no water or debris out of the line- I just add some fresh and they're fine once the service is done. I tell people in Lee's position to stabilize fresh fuel and to periodically run the equipment to cycle fresh fuel into the carb.
These twins just seem to be more sensitive to me and I don't really have an answer why. I can't say that I love any of the carburetion on these.
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Re: Intek twin cold start

Postby Arkie » Sat Sep 30, 2017 6:35 am

Might read this thread for some cold start clues when using a vacuum/pulse fuel pump engine and installing a 12v elec to assist or replace.

Pump #60304 @ #36.50

http://casecoltingersoll.com/showthread ... fuel-pumps

anyone had any experience with 12v cheaper fuel pump for 12v electric start small engines?

I've relocated some pulse/vacuum pumps to where the pump is lower than the gas tank (flooded suction) and get quicker engine start.
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Re: Intek twin cold start

Postby KE4AVB » Sat Sep 30, 2017 8:53 am

Arkie you want to check these pumps then. I am the 2-5 psi but scrolled for other pressure ranges. I can see that would the the fitting over 1/4 nipples instead of the 5/16 ones supplied.

https://www.amazon.com/Autobest-F4027-Externally-Universal-Electric/dp/B00496RE82

or you check out this one.

https://www.amazon.com/Bravex-Universal-Pressure-Electric-HEP-02A/dp/B01NA6AEXC/ref=pd_cp_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=K99TTB5GPTGHB5CRE332
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Re: Intek twin cold start

Postby 38racing » Sat Sep 30, 2017 9:30 am

I just started mine as several weeks sitting. I just crank a short period. Stop. Recrank. and after 5 or so it starts.
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Re: Intek twin cold start

Postby Arkie » Sat Sep 30, 2017 10:49 am

38racing wrote:I just started mine as several weeks sitting. I just crank a short period. Stop. Recrank. and after 5 or so it starts.


Right about just short crank time to save starter? Bendix gear and battery.
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Re: Intek twin cold start

Postby lee » Sat Sep 30, 2017 12:46 pm

Anybody tried putting a primer bulb for an outboard motor on the suction side of the vacuum fuel pump?
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Re: Intek twin cold start

Postby aj-allen » Sun Oct 01, 2017 12:29 pm

lee wrote:Anybody tried putting a primer bulb for an outboard motor on the suction side of the vacuum fuel pump?



I have one on a kohler works fine!!
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