Generator out put issues........

[AandPDan]

Your generator shouldn't be running at 4000 rpm. Most are set at 63hz unloaded, about 3750 rpm.

Check for free play in the governor linkage. There used to be a link in the forum to Perr Notebook which had the procedure to eliminate the free play.

[Blueflame6]

AandPDan, At 3,750 RPM no load I'm getting 61-62 hz, I dropped it down to 3,600 and got 58hz. Running at 3,750 then giving it a load of 1,500 watts RPM drops to 3,500 and 92 volts. I just checked the compression and it reads 63#, sort of low, maybe that's the ACR talking? I think I'll check the valves for proper clearance and the ACR valve "bump", I assume that there is an ACR in this engine (194412-0122-04)?

[AandPDan]

3600 rpm = 60 hz. It's a 2 pole generator.

Either your tach is wrong or your hz meter is wrong.

Per the Briggs L Head Service Manual, top no-load speed for a generator is 3750 rpm. There is no compression reading. They suggest a cylinder leak down test.
Your governor is not maintaining RPM under load that's why the voltage is dropping. It could be a weak governor spring or binding in the governor linkage.

[KE4AVB]

First looks like the posted model number is wrong. Appears to be a PM54A4302.

IF it isn't the meters out of whack are you sure the rotor isn't slipping on the taper as motor rpm don't match rotor rpm? Hz x 60 = RPM and RPM / 60 = Hz

[Arkie]

You might try these tips.

First connect your freq meter to as utility source and see that it reads 60 Hertz correctly.

Then set the gen speed at 64hz no-load AFTER you have done the STATIC governor adjust. Voltage may read 135 volts but less than 140.

Connect the governor sensitivity spring in the notches or holes that has the spring at it's greatest tension. make sure that Bubba has not installed a weaker or wrong spring. This spring must be strong enough that the governor will pull the engine speed up and keep the engine governor from hunting up and down between load and no load. (that is why is called the governor sensitivity spring when used on a gen) Each time the spring is in a different notch or hole the no load speed will usually require a slight tweak adjustment for 64 hz.
Start the gen and set the no load speed at 64hz with no load. Also turn in the carb idle adjust screw as far as it will go so as the low engine idle is held at 64hz, get a longer idle screw if necessary to accomplish this.

If you add and removed a 2kw load and the engine speed hunts up and down quite a bit before it settles most likely the governor sensitivity spring is weak or the governor mechanical linkage is sloppy. I've made temp repairs to weak springs and also added another spring either over or inside the existing spring. (quite common for the springs to become weak and a hint is the engine will hunt up and down quite a bit between load and no load) On Coleman gens this spring is the one connected to the no load engine speed adjust arm.
You can reduce the amount of up and down hunting on gens that do not have the low idle function by using a long low idle screw to hold the engine speed up a much as possible on constant rpms gens with a weak or sloppy governor
The engine when using the longer low idle screw don't have to recover as much from the dip in rpm as the load is first applied. Also slightly tweak the high speed carb adjust while the engine is loaded for max rpms if the carb has a H jet adjust. sometimes just a 1/8 turn on a warm engine is enough to not get good engine load response if the H jet was adjusted a no load or when the engine was cold.

[Skywatcher]

Hi Blueflame

Looks like Arkie and I were tying at the same time and he posted first. Sounds like he has some interesting test techniques worth trying. Now for what my suggestions are;

Have you actually synchronized the throttle shaft to the governor shaft? This makes a huge difference on output performance with Honda generators. I don't even use a tachometer when tuning generators, just a Fluke frequency meter plugged into one of the outlets. With governor set for 62 Hz no load, governor should hold 60 Hz at 75% rated load. Your Coleman 4,000 probably has a rated load of 3,000 to 3,500 watts. The advertised 4,000 watts is probably the maximum surge output for use when starting an electric motor driven appliance.

For load testing generators, I have 3 old 1,500 watt kettles and a 750/1,500 watt space heater along with a home made adapter extension cord with the 4 prong 220 volt 25 amp plug on one end and a 4 outlet 110 volt junction box on the other. I wired the 2 pairs of plug-ins so each pair runs of one side of the 220 volt circuit. This way, I can keep the load as balanced as possible.

If the Hz drops down to 58 or lower at 75% rated load, I re-synchronize the governor and throttle shaft. 58 Hz is the normal drop for 100% rated load and 56 Hz is normal for 100% surge load. However, never hold the surge load for more than 10 seconds, or you'll risk burning something out unless the circuit breaker pops first. Different makes of generator may have different governor drop rates, but these are the general figures I use in my shop. Hope this gives you something with which to work,

Sky

[Arkie]

Not to confuse you and you may know this but:

Also keep a heads up that the 120v gen DUPLEX outlet receptacle is usually split wired. A 4kw Coleman is around 3500 watts max continuous load and each 120volt single side of the duplex receptacle is around 1600-1750 watts MAX. 10-12 amps at 120 volts per split wired receptacle is better for testing. (and you will find that your gen is happier at a very max continuous load of around 3000 watts for 220 volts or 1500 for each side of the duplex recept MAX.)

My point is do not overload ONE of the TWO split wired 120volt winding at 3 or 4 kw or you may see smoke if the ckt breaker don't trip fast enough.
(the 4kw is surge wattage rating if for 220volts only or 1/2 of the wattage for each side of the split wired 120v recept) I like to use a continous load test of 80% max of the generators continuous rating at a rule of thumb for testing at continuous loads.

Some gen's have a 120/220 switch and you can only load one or the other (220v or 120volts) not both at same time so as to also reduce chance of overloading the gen and smoke. Your Coleman power mate does not have this option.

AND yes forget about using a tachometer, use a Hertz meter (frequency meter) that is accurate.

The resistance heating elements enclosed in the duct of central heating units makes real good loads for series/parallel load gen testing and old used ones are usually free from central heat air dealers. Just add a small 120v fan to keep them air cooled if using as continuous duty testing. (and you can series and parallel the elements to vary the kw load testing and you can just store the el4ctrical elements outside in a shed when not being used. they are (not a fragile load testing unit that requires being stored inside)

[Blueflame6]

I am sorry that I haven't responded to all of these fine suggestions as of late. I have been dealing with my wife's early onset Dementia after being diagnosed six years ago. It is now coming to a head and I am seeking a nursing home for my wife with the help from our family Dr. This has been an all consuming job as of late. I will return when the dust has settled and I have a clear mind. thank you, Peter

[KE4AVB]

This I know all to well as I took care of my mother at home until her death. My brother was of no help at all. I had a RN and a nurse's aid with Hospice coming in weekly with the aid coming 3x a week.

It was a living nightmare being accused of everything by my brother. I even had to got through a DHR investigation because of young nurse at the hospital. They had put my mother in a nursing home for three weeks during the investigation then cleared me and sent my mother home for me to take care of. She arrived with two bad bed sores which took several weeks to get healed.

I don't wish this on anyone...But some of us must deal with it.