B&S Alternator Information Needed

[OverKnight]

I have a 33" Snapper mower, model 331416BVE - Series 16 RER with a B&S 287707-1255-E3 engine. It has the dual circuit alternator #696459 (#474A in the B&S Part List). The pin on the wire coming from the diode broke off. I was able to compress what was left of it so it fits into the white plug, but this isn't a very secure connection, and I want to repair this correctly. Do I need to replace the entire stator, or are the wires with the diode available separately that could be soldered onto the stator wires?

Also, I have a 12V magnetic mount light that I'd like to use with this mower. My understanding is the black wire from the stator should have about 14 volts, and is provided to run headlights. When I connected a voltmeter between the black wire and a ground, there was no voltage indicated. I've since learned that the engine is supposed to be at full throttle when checking this voltage; I don't remember if it was or not (probably not), so I'll check it again. Would this black wire go straight to the switch for the headlight, or do I need something like part #790292, a B&S regulator, between the black wire and the switch?

Thank you.

[KE4AVB]

As for the diode and lead as far as I know it is not available separately from Briggs. If the stator is fine then you can use a BYV98-200-TR diode which has rating of 4A continuous 70A Surge 200 PIV. It will look different than the plastic case version. The cathode (the end with the stripe) goes toward the battery away from the stator; otherwise, you have a negative DC output before it fries itself once connected along with stator probably. It would need to crimp into place instead of soldering due to heating during operation plus from vibration and cover by a heat shrink tube. Of course the Amp TE pin would need to be replaced. Info on the alternator connectors, pins and sockets part numbers are in the Briggs alternator connector PDF under the Briggs Advance service info directory in the downloads forum under Briggs service info. These parts are available thru Mouser, Inc. One other note these pins and sockets require an open barrel crimper to crimp them properly.

Now to the black lead. The output will be AC and not DC so if you using the DC on your meter of the output would be zero; of course, one tester lead need to to the crankcase ground. If no output on AC check then the stator is most likely fried. No DC regulator is needed as it is an AC circuit and is intend only for AC 12v incandescent lighting. If your light is LED then you would need to use the regular battery DC circuit instead.

Alternator 695459 has been superseded to 592831.

[38racing]

available AM
https://www.bantasaw.com/catalog/viewpr ... ?i=&p=5158

[KE4AVB]

Tnx for the tip #38racing on OEM part number. For those that think the Bantasaw PN is a Stens PN; it is not. Upon further research using the OEM pn I found that both Oregon and Rotary have AM versions. Part numbers are Oregon 33-414 and Rotary 9206.

I will add these to my inventory database here including the Briggs PN.

[OverKnight]

Thank you, Gentlemen. I find it curious that 14 VAC is produced by this alternator; what would AC voltage be used for a mower light this? The light I want to use contains a single 55 W halogen bulb. Can this light operate on AC voltage? Alternatively, would I be able to change or upgrade the alternator to one that can easily a 55 W headlight?

[38racing]

you can buy a 10 amp stator and regulator but it won't be cheap. maybe find one in ebay but I am finding nothing is cheap on ebay anymore. for the heck I rewound a dual stator into a higher amp ac and fed it through a regulator. I have time on my hands sometimes for projects like that.

[KE4AVB]

Or find them at one of your local small engine shop. We sometimes get blown engines that beyond repair and just part them out. Now my shop too small to have one around long.

As far as the Halogen it going be pulling about 4.6 amps and Halogen will work on AC. With the current setup you won't be able to use both the Halogen and the two 1156 bulbs. Now the 1156 use uses 26.9 watts @12.8 volts each. As you see you would be pulling twice the current of just one 1156.

Only one problem running Halogen using the current stator is that when idling it may not get hot enough at the lower voltage to redeposit the Quartz onto the element. This is done at the high temps at the rated voltage and current.

[OverKnight]

There are no taillights, just the magnetic-mount halogen light. With how my work schedule has been, I've been finishing the lawn/leaves in the dark, using just a small headband light. The majority of the time, I won't be using the halogen.

I'll contact the local small engine shop and if they don't have the correct used 10-amp stator and regulator on hand, I'll ask them to keep me in mind if they come across one. Which is the correct stator and regulator for the B&S 287707-1255-E3 engine? My guess is the #695466 or the #715262 (both of these use the #691185 regulator). Would the existing stator work with a 10-amp stator, or would I need to replace that, also. In any case, I've ordered the #393456 diode that 38racing referenced. A lot cheaper than a new stator, especially if can put out enough for the single halogen.

Thank you.

[Luffydog]

How about an led light?

[OverKnight]

That's a thought. However, LEDs weren't available when I bought the halogen maybe 7 - 8 years ago for around $25.00, and haven't even used it yet. The five-watt alternator I have can run this light (five watts should be equal to about 70 watts), so instead of spending more money, I'd rather get some return on what I spent. Also, unless you spent a lot, most of the LED lights I've seen have a pretty narrow beam. Where there is light, it's quite bright, but the lighting is only in a small area.

Thank you.