Old Homelite

[jerkputter123]

I am trying to find a new Carburetor for a Homelite 20CC model UT-10786-A. Serial number is HA 1231600
The original is a Zama H4292A
I ordered one and the throttle linkage was not right . I thought I could swap my linkage but it would not work. All the pictures I have seen are like the one I ordered. My throttle is on the same side as choke lever bolted on shaft with small screw.
This old chainsaw has not been used but a few times since new.
Anyone know where I could buy a new original carb ? Maybe these are no longer available ? Anyway thought I would ask.
Thanks. Tom

[KE4AVB]

Double check your carburetor model series but I thinking you have the C1Q-H42 which has been discontinue. I see many places offering a replacement but they are all config wrong. They are config for a left hand choke and it appears you have a right hand choke model.

[bgsengine]

Hmm reminds me I might have one of those C1Q-H42 still sitting on the shelf .. Id have to check though

[jerkputter123]

I see a C 10 right above where you set the mixture screws. Best I can tell it is a C 10. The H42 92A is plain but not sure those are the numbers I need. Let me know. I am interested in buying one. I can maybe link a picture of it if you want. Thanks Tom

[bgsengine]

I see a C 10 right above where you set the mixture screws. Best I can tell it is a C 10. The H42 92A is plain but not sure those are the numbers I need. Let me know. I am interested in buying one. I can maybe link a picture of it if you want. Thanks Tom

Yeah that C1Q can look a lot like a C10 Unfortunately the one I have sitting on the shelf is C1U-H41 not a C1Q

[jerkputter123]

I will explain what a dumb thing I did. I went to use the chainsaw a few weeks ago and the low side setting needed opening up a bit. It would bog down when I accelerated it.
I had always run all the gas out of saw before I would store it. Always would empty tank also . I would kept choking it until I knew no more gas would be left in carb. Sometime it would be many months before I would use it again so I didn't want old gas in It.

Now when I had to adjust this thing it had the plastic things around the mixture screws so I thought I would just take my side cutters and remove them where I could get to the adjustment screws adjust better. Not a good idea on this one because those plastic things help hold the mixture screws tight. After I did that they would keep backing off when I would use the saw but it did run fine as long as I kept it adjusted which was annoying.

I got a longer spring which really was not the right one trying to make it tighter and not back off. I even got to tiny washers and installed behind the mixture screws trying to make the springs stay in place but that did not work.

I do think I might have messed up the base of carb over tightening it. I got it to fire off one time after I did this stupid thing it just will not start again. It kept flooding the plug. I again tried to adjust but still no crank.

I set the mixture screws the way I always have from base setting but no go.
Now I have probably messed it up good trying to take the one I ordered and make it work using my throttle shaft. I had read somewhere where someone stated they did this on the replacement but not on mine. I now have stripped the shaft where the butterfly goes.
Hope I explained this ok. Thanks again for any help. I just hate to toss this saw. Years ago I used to be a homelite dealer and have many old parts from the late 60's and 70's but no carbs left.

[KE4AVB]

Probably the root cause was a stiffen metering diaphragm and/or fuel pump diaphragm causing the fuel mixture problems. It doesn't matter if no fuel is left in the carb when it comes to these rubber parts. I have seen them nearly rock hard after time has gone by. Now fuel being left in the carb does gum them up. Being either regular gas or ethanol blend gas as the fuel oil can the culprit.

And you did mess up cutting off the plastic limiter retainer. They don't need to be cutoff just need to expand at the slot to remove the limiter caps. Even you don't need to completely remove the limiter caps; just them out enough to disengage them from the knurled shaft. They should have a small hole that a 5/64 straight sided flat blade screwdriver can inserted in to adjust the mixture(s).

Now I did look in old cube carb box here and I don't one either of the C1Q-H42 on hand.

[jerkputter123]

The metering diaphragm and fuel pump diaphragm are not hard. I think I remember replacing them a few years ago but cannot say for sure.
I just made the mistake and messed this thing up but lesson learned. In a hurry and you know how that goes.
I just bought a new chain but no big deal.
You think the carbs you got would work on this chainsaw ? Probably not metered for this Homelite though I would even take a used one if I could fine one.
If not then what you think about a Echo CS-352 ? or maybe a suggestion on a saw for a home user. I do cut some trees for my son on occasion that are maybe 24 to 30 inches in diameter. Never anything larger as I am getting too old for that

[bgsengine]

We sell Echo.The CS-352 is just awesome, though not really suitable for felling larger trees like 20-30 inches but they pack a lot of power into a small, lightweight package - It's my saw of choice for a my own personal needs,it can handle firewood cutting easily enough along with the usual trimming and yard clean-up work.. if I was gonna work in the woods as a logger though I'd probably have a pair of Makitas - DC6421 (landing saw) and EA7901 (felling)

If you planned on doing mostly homeowner use stuff but might have to do any felling of larger size trees, you might want to consider echo CS-590 timberwolf - they are not too heavy so easy enough to use for the light work but still plenty there to handle a couple minor felling jobs too

[jerkputter123]

Thanks for the tip on the CS-352 Echo's. I think I will just go with the lighter one being I am getting older
I have not give up on the Homelite just yet even though I am going to purchase a new saw. I don't like defeat