Intek twin sump reseal

[hanz63]

Have my first reseal of the season on the bench. Is everyone still using the revised gasket set 594195 per the instructions in the kit? I've sealed one in the past that the new kit didn't hold with right stuff which did well.

[KE4AVB]

I installed two of the kits last year without problems and I still have one in stock.

But your comment is a little confusing though to me. Did not hold or did it? Please clarify.

[hanz63]

I've generally had success with using the new kit and procedure. One twin once buttoned back up came loose and failed. Everything by the book, new kit and all-but this one had the bolts really loose and was apparently run that way a while. That freaks me out remembering all those mid 90s singles that did the same. It's really tough to find flaws in these surfaces if there were any. That one I mentioned is holding with the Right Stuff sealant. No clue if one could reseal them all this way once the thing has some hours to maybe give clearance w/ no gasket.No doubt you noticed that the newer sumps come with sealant instead of a gasket. I've not compared sump numbers to the really new stuff. Somewhere ~ 2010/11 the oil pump cover changed I think. So when you go to the parts list, click on the arrow that shows the supercession on the sump gasket , it shows as "Discretionary" to use the 594195 kit. Did it always? I dunno. I don't see anything on the portal, but could be missing something. Thanks for your thoughts here and in the past.

[38racing]

boy. $50 cdn up here for that kit. seems to be for models starting 40?

[KE4AVB]

The reason the kit (if it is the one I'm thinking of) is so expensive is that is comes with new bolts there are prepared with blue Loctite. Apparently the bolts working back out is one of the problems with these engines. You will also notice they say use a thread chaser and not a regular tap as to clean only and not cut new threads as most taps will enlarge to current threaded holes. Also they increase gasket width in an area that in prone to being sucked in.

I would need to read up on the sealant you mention when I get a chance. Currently covered with work and having redo my banking setups as I am having to change banks due a pending bank branch closure. Don't have the spare for this but I got to it done anyways as I not going to more than doubling my travel just to make bank deposits.

The RTV has been use sometime on Kohler engines but if the engine came with gasket don't be attempted to just use the RTV as there will be clearance issues. I haven't gotten to those there are being change over by Briggs nor have I gotten in a MTD P90 to see what I need to do get them apart. I don't just go into a customer's engine when it don't need it but I am curious about these; maybe one of these days I will get the opportunity. But the Kolhers that I have resealed squeezes nearly all it back out; just filling the imperfections.

[Skywatcher]

Hi All

On applications like these where you're investing a lot in both time and money, I use a thin film of Loctite® brand flange sealant, just enough to make the aluminum or gasket look pink. Also, if you understand anything about painting, you'll know that paint will not adhere to a perfectly smooth surface, I believe the same goes for any type of sealant. Therefore I use a surface preparation disc on a die grinder to just take the mirror finish off the block and sump gasket surfaces. I feel this gives the sealant something to grip, the same as slightly roughing the surface before painting. Just my thoughts,

Sky

[hanz63]

The only thing that I've used on the white gasket is Gasgacinch. Flange seal, I have not. I've done the scuff with scotch brites and I think it helps- but you have to be so careful on cleanliness. I agree that something to hold these gaskets would be helpful.

[Walt 2002]

I have more time than money so I am going to try making my own Intek V Twin sump gasket since you can not buy regular ones any more and I consider $25 - $30 for one highway robbery. I have my theory on how to prevent future failure. Don't think it will take me very long and fairly simple, $4.49 for gasket material. Engine is not presently in use nor mounted. Of course commercial shops can not take the time nor risk.

Walt Conner

[hanz63]

I hear what you are saying Walt. My first thought was that I should have taken the new gasket and drawn a pattern for the next time. Then I figured that if for some reason this or another came back again, I would just go back to the sealant with the red vibratite. I may have another coming up over the next few weeks. Gotta call about a lower seal in one. Hmmm, wonder what that will be....The white gasket feels kind of gnarly and strong in its defense. 25$ strong? So look for something on the tough side and post how it turned out.