for a few pennies of anti seize

[38racing]

I want to see if neighbour's burned out zero turn hydros work so I need to put an engine on it. The only way the drive pulley is coming off the existing engine is with grinder and chisel. Many heat cycles and lots of fluid film and the puller won't budge it. Thinking of making a test pulley using the weld on hubs. Cheaper than buying the real deal for a test project. Fire was on right side rear. Cooling fans are ok but right breather hose is a burned stub on the unit.

[KE4AVB]

Sounds like the Cub Cadet ZTRs that I must remove the drive pulley on so the engine can be removed. I know the engine is going to be destroy so I put on the bearing separator and puller set. Tighten down the forcing screw with an impact then heat the pulley hub with Ace/Ox torch until light red and start tightening the forcing more while adding more heat as I pull the pulley. I nearly stripped my forcing the last time but I have use the puller set several times doing this. Once the pulley start moving don't stop applying heat and pressure as needed the until it is off. I didn't expect the HFT puller to last any way. There will not much left of the v-pulley as it get crushed during the pull operation. They are seized from top to bottom with rust. The main key is to get it to move any at all at first. You know it is moving if the forcing needs more tightening before it stops turning

I sent the last pulley across my driveway to cool off as I forgot to have pan of cold water on hand to put it in.

[38racing]

This white by mtd had clearance to remove engine so working on garage floor. I only have Mapp gas for heating. I don't heat while pulling though. Guess I could try one more time. Point is though I need to not destroy pulley.

[Luffydog]

Drill a very starter hole in the bolt in the center and use air chisel the vibes will loosen the rust also use some good ole wd-40 key is be very patient and let it do the work.

[38racing]

Drill a very starter hole in the bolt in the center and use air chisel the vibes will loosen the rust also use some good ole wd-40 key is be very patient and let it do the work.

Not sure what you mean about starter hole but might try chisel on hub sections. That said I just realized that I can use any engine pulley for the test. Probably shouldn't matter if its for 5/8 rather than 1/2.

[bobodu]

Can ya get a drill on the pumps?

[38racing]

Can ya get a drill on the pumps?

Not sure. Idea being jack it up and spin the pulley and see if wheel turns? Wonder if air ratchet is fast enough.

[KE4AVB]

Hmmm, I don't think they are anywhere near fast enough. Need about 1800 rpm minimum but that depends on the hydro too.

[38racing]

I need to see if i can fix steering on old husqvarna so I'll pull its engine to get better access and throw it and its pulley onto the zturn.

[Walt 2002]

What I have done in these cases where I did not want to destroy the steel pulley was drill 3/8" holes across from each other close to the hub but out far enough to put a washer and nut. Drill matching hold in scrap of 3/8" or 1/2" flat stock IF you don't already have an adjustable bar such as a timing gear puller. Buy a couple of grade 8 bolts long enough to go thru the flat stock or puller when placed over the end of the crankshaft and thru the pulley, washer and nut. Tighten alternately hitting the center over crankshaft periodically. A little work but I have saved a lot of pulleys and did not use heat. Soaking over night with PB Blaster or equivalent will make it easier.

Walt Conner

PS: The holes will not damage the pulley.