for a few pennies of anti seize

[KE4AVB]

Might work on lightly seized ones but the ones I have been removing are fully seized and I even strip the 9/16" forcing screw which I now have upgrade to 3/4" after machinist resized the puller hub. It might have been because of the 1300 ft lb impact I was using to tighten the puller. Even with that torque it still takes heat to move to pulley center hub.

[38racing]

What I have done in these cases where I did not want to destroy the steel pulley was drill 3/8" holes across from each other close to the hub but out far enough to put a washer and nut. Drill matching hold in scrap of 3/8" or 1/2" flat stock IF you don't already have an adjustable bar such as a timing gear puller. Buy a couple of grade 8 bolts long enough to go thru the flat stock or puller when placed over the end of the crankshaft and thru the pulley, washer and nut. Tighten alternately hitting the center over crankshaft periodically. A little work but I have saved a lot of pulleys and did not use heat. Soaking over night with PB Blaster or equivalent will make it easier.

Walt Conner

PS: The holes will not damage the pulley.

I've actually done that many times. In this case the bearing puller knife edges fit on the hub edge at engine base but just can't get the pulley to move at all.