Craftsman Tractor 917.203901 Forward/Reverse sticking

[dart451]

Haven't had any issues with these newer Craftsman tractors with single toggle type peddle for forward and reverse before now. Have one that's sticking. Either doesn't want to go forward or doesn't want to go reverse. If you give the peddle a sharp tap, it will usually shift into the other direction. I've looked under the tractor while the wife plays with the peddle but for the life of me, I cannot tell where it's hanging up! Can't see a darn thing on top of the tranny where the shift bar goes. I even sprayed some WD40 in all the joints, (ya I know, it's all supposed to be dry) but that didn't solve anything... Anyone out there have issues with similar problem on these models? I just don't see a solution...

[KE4AVB]

Folks this one has the General Transmissions RS800P transaxle. It probably has something to with the inversion section but any to work on others will need to step in if have any experience with these. I also hear that debris on the transaxle is a major cause of problems.

Dart I do have the service manuals in the downloads that might help on troubleshooting the problems.

[dart451]

Sure KE4AVB, always happy to look through the service manual! Hell, I might learn something!? This tractor is very clean...no debris in the way...

[dart451]

Was looking at the service manual KE4AVB in the troubleshooting area. Problem is, you cannot see anything on top of the transmission where some of the parts might be in question...there is a fuel tank mounted above the seat and it appears it won't come out unless you take off the rear fender...this should be a blast!

[KE4AVB]

Now you know my pain where the OEM penny pinchers decides that regular hex bolts are just fine causing me to need to remove the rear fender assembly just to change out an idler pulley because they were to cheap to use carriage bolts. They just don't think about us that have to service these pieces of equipment. Just a few months ago I had remove the whole rear fender assembly just to the fuel pump on a JD 445 mower. Or last year when I had change an idler on SST16 where the rear fender assembly had come loose and raised enough to get the hex bolt. There also been a few Craftsman that the fender assembly to taken loose just get the bolts for idler replacement.

Those manufactures ears ought to be burning by now if they could hear me cuss as I mashed my fingers. I glad I work by myself sometimes.

It might be easier to just drop the transaxle as some of the Husqvarna's which includes Craftsman you even got to take the operator tower off just get to the fuel tank.

[dart451]

Not sure what I'm going to do on this job...even if I dropped the tranny I would still be at a loss to fix the problem and...customer only brought it in for an oil change and mentioned a little problem with the shifting! We'll see...

Funny, I found a youtube video on a Husqvarna tractor with a RS800 tranny...seemed a pretty simple procedure but the Husky had the battery in the back, Craftsman has a fuel tank that appears you have to remove the fenders to get at the tranny. Look at it when I get back from Arizona...

[KE4AVB]

If you do find out what problem is let us know as we all are new working the RS800.

[dart451]

If you do find out what problem is let us know as we all are new working the RS800.

Here is a youtube video I found which has you take out the battery to get at tranny...seems pretty simple except Craftsman has the fuel tank under the seat which is going to be much more difficult!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-VFcajP1Hsk&index=2&list=FLDweLDaaJD94c_sPNQWfuOQ&t=17s

[Arkie]

I did not read all of this, but I had a Murray awhile back that had similar issues (the paddle type speed control) and I rigged it too my lawn tractor lift so as I could lift the front end really high after removing the deck (also used safety stands so would not fall on me)
and I could operate the paddle by myself and watch the belt drive mechanical action from underneath, long story short is the belt idler swivel system was not moving smooth and free.
I covered the belt with a plastic bag and was able to use WD40 and lube the swivel section between the bracket and the tractor frame. The paddle clutch spring for this one is OEM and kinda wimpy looking and seems like a little bit stronger spring would have also helped keep this issue from taking place.
I might have to eventually remove the hard to get to bracket and clean the swivel area later if the issue returns.

I could not see anything wrong when looking at the rig with the deck on the unit, because I could not see the drive system up against the tractor frame and the clutch mechanical action and looking at the IPL was not much help.

[Arkie]

Now you know my pain where the OEM penny pinchers decides that regular hex bolts are just fine causing me to need to remove the rear fender assembly just to change out an idler pulley because they were to cheap to use carriage bolts. They just don't think about us that have to service these pieces of equipment. Just a few months ago I had remove the whole rear fender assembly just to the fuel pump on a JD 445 mower. Or last year when I had change an idler on SST16 where the rear fender assembly had come loose and raised enough to get the hex bolt. There also been a few Craftsman that the fender assembly to taken loose just get the bolts for idler replacement.

Those manufactures ears ought to be burning by now if they could hear me cuss as I mashed my fingers. I glad I work by myself sometimes.
But the way some of them rigs are it's not easy being in two places at once when working by yourself. I just got through with one that I had to drop the transaxle down about 2 inches to do a simple task and no carriage bolts were used and me trying to rig holding wrenchs on top that would hold the rusty bolts while working from underneath.
It might be easier to just drop the transaxle as some of the Husqvarna's which includes Craftsman you even got to take the operator tower off just get to the fuel tank.

I think they (most manufacturers) build them like such so as the owner will get disgusted enough with themselves trying to do a repair and/or a service guy having to quote what seems like out of sight labor charges for what seems to be minor repairs. (and they can save couple dollars in the manu process)
I remember such when someone asks me what type to buy. I tell them I can tell you WHAT NOT TO BUY.