AYP adjustable drag link

[hanz63]

You can cheat and put adjustable drag links on the Deeres, but they still don't steer the way they should. The axle is the correct repair on both of these. I put plenty in on both the HOP and JD.

[KE4AVB]

You can cheat and put adjustable drag links on the Deeres, but they still don't steer the way they should. The axle is the correct repair on both of these. I put plenty in on both the HOP and JD.

Are you saying that the axle is bent somehow and that even new spindles don't correct it? Just curious as that JD L130 I repaired that had the two inches of toe out that straighten out didn't appear to be bent or twisted nor was the spindles. Or does the new axle have a different offset?

[hanz63]

So when you look at an L or D series and note that the axle is canted rearward at the wheel spindle there is a good chance that the axle is also cracked near the center. I'll do a cursory look with an inspection mirror, but you just can't see the crack, until... We've probably all replaced broken L series axles before. One part of the axle the break is rusted and the other fresh. I've never replaced a broken cast HOP axle. It tends to defy logic, but they can tweak as well. I think the HOP cast axles do tweak and they certainly do wear in the center at the frame allowing the trajectory to change and the toe to increase. Yes, I've installed the adjustable links and they help but it is easy to be past the point of a good return and the tractor just won't handle correctly. I always give the disclaimer that the axle will greatly improve the steering if not restore it to as it was new. Sometimes just the flat bar that the drag link attaches to on the wheel spindle is bent down from impact. Other times additional parts are needed or sometimes frame will get hogged out enough in the axle pocket to allow a perfect axle set. Rare though.

[KE4AVB]

The problem with Husqvarna/AYP mowers that I been hearing of the last three + years is that a lot them even when brand new ( never ever used) are having toe problems which is the manufacture's fault.

Point taken about the impacts bending and the axle having stress failures. None these failures I have straight out have been with the axle; though, I had a few bent spindles. I see more bushings failures leading to spindle replacements; of course, new bushings are install in the axles. I even install a couple set of the heavy duty wheel roller bearings instead of the wheel bushings. These are those flimsy wheel bearings that JD sells as replacements for the wheel bushings that can easily work there way out if not properly shimmed and wallow out the wheel hub opening.

[38racing]

I recall that my friend had a JD and had to replace the spindles. He wasn't happy about it especially when the dealer suggested it would need new ones on a regular basis. He traded it for a husqvarna because he wanted a Kawasaki.

[KE4AVB]

Be it wheel or deck spindle it is the lack of keeping them greased that leads to early failures besides impacts. Both Husqvarna and JD uses the same graphite impregnated wheel bushings and very similar spindle designs. They will wear heavily if not kept greased. While they are wearing they also wear the mating spindle shaft areas. You can't just put in new bushings either once this wear has occurred or the new bushing will very quickly wear out again.

Lack of maintenance by owners is the biggest problem that I ran into when bearings or bushings fail. Also putting cheap Chinese ball bearing without repacking with moly lube (EP2) or the water proof version as the grease that is in these bearings will dry out and cause without most times a year or less.

I not complaining though as it keeps me in work and food on the table.

[hanz63]

Yeah, couple that with metal bushings grinding away the spindle with the dirt from having no wheel cover... a perfect storm. Strangely the cheapo MTD with the plastic bushings fair better.