Does this look like S122501?
I think that would be serial. Does that help nail down the model?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Pfbaxrm9EeToN7ne9
lefty wrote:On the belt cover, there's a sticker. In the bottom right corner written very small it says: 20585 (1/82)
I looked up that number but couldn't come up with anything. Could be the part number for the cover? But maybe the 1/82 is a date?
No idea myself, havent been looking yet , hence my suggestion to get busy on google or similar and *assume* that is the model number (Maybe something referencing a owners manual somewhere, giving a clue, etc?)lefty wrote:I did check it with a magnifying glass (very sad that it has fallen to this in my old age). It's definitely 585. So I think that's what we got.
Does it have kin that I could base my parts on?
Your guess is right on the money.. fill through top til oil comes out the oil level plug.
As many of you know, I'm not super experienced. So per usual, this is the first of its kind I've come across. As I'm looking at the gear case, I see a fill plug on top and then a fill plug on the side. Next to the one on the side, it says oil level, or something similar. My guess is that oil will be poured into the top until it starts to come out the hole on the side, which would be the proper level.
80W90 EP gear lube - But, TRY to find an older APSI oil classification (I forget the grade) because after a certain classification grade, the oil additives will eat away at bronze gears (which the worm gears are) But definitely gear oil, just need to do a bit of research on a grade and classification that are suitable for bronze worm gears..This machine is very low.
Am I on the right track with that?
What type of oil goes in these cases?
They do have tine shaft seals both sides) and wheel axle seals, as well as side cover gasket (and some have rear cover gasket that is also used to set bearing pre-load, so be mindful of any shims if you do happen to pull one out) tine shaft seals are fairly common to replace (obviously) but can be a royal PITA if the hubs are well rusted to the shafts, sometimes to the point you'd do just as well to just completely disassemble the whole machine to clean up , re-lube , replace all seals and gaskets, and be sure to use anti-seize compound on re-assembly (wheel hubs to axles, and tine hubs to shaft, etc)
I also noticed a little leakage coming out of the right side of the case in the rear, where the shaft for each side of the horizontal business end of the gear case is. Not sure if there's a seal or just a gasket over there.
lefty wrote:Now I have a bigger problem. The shorter tube that goes into the "bowl" section of the tank has broken off. The plastic on this is super brittle. The longer extension tube, which I knew I had to replace, was crumbling in my hand. From what I can see, this is not a part that can be replaced. So I'm thinking that there has to be a new carb possibly? Or, is super glue a possibility? It's not completely broken off, just mostly.
The carb I have is the 90A on the schematic
https://www.partstree.com/models/130292-1664-01-briggs-stratton-horizontal-engine/2-carburetor-assemblies-0/
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