TroyBuilt Tiller

[lefty]

Does this look like S122501?

I think that would be serial. Does that help nail down the model?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Pfbaxrm9EeToN7ne9

[lefty]

On the belt cover, there's a sticker. In the bottom right corner written very small it says: 20585 (1/82)

I looked up that number but couldn't come up with anything. Could be the part number for the cover? But maybe the 1/82 is a date?

[bgsengine]

On the belt cover, there's a sticker. In the bottom right corner written very small it says: 20585 (1/82)

I looked up that number but couldn't come up with anything. Could be the part number for the cover? But maybe the 1/82 is a date?

check it with magnifying glass, you sure it isn't 20595 ? which would be the model number but that is your model tag there, and 1/82 would be the build date quite likely. might possibly be a model 20585 as well (not all troy bilt models will be found in online parts lookups)

[lefty]

I did check it with a magnifying glass (very sad that it has fallen to this in my old age). It's definitely 585. So I think that's what we got.

Does it have kin that I could base my parts on?

As many of you know, I'm not super experienced. So per usual, this is the first of its kind I've come across. As I'm looking at the gear case, I see a fill plug on top and then a fill plug on the side. Next to the one on the side, it says oil level, or something similar. My guess is that oil will be poured into the top until it starts to come out the hole on the side, which would be the proper level. This machine is very low.

Am I on the right track with that?
What type of oil goes in these cases?

I also noticed a little leakage coming out of the right side of the case in the rear, where the shaft for each side of the horizontal business end of the gear case is. Not sure if there's a seal or just a gasket over there.

[bgsengine]

I did check it with a magnifying glass (very sad that it has fallen to this in my old age). It's definitely 585. So I think that's what we got.

Does it have kin that I could base my parts on?

No idea myself, havent been looking yet , hence my suggestion to get busy on google or similar and *assume* that is the model number (Maybe something referencing a owners manual somewhere, giving a clue, etc?)

As many of you know, I'm not super experienced. So per usual, this is the first of its kind I've come across. As I'm looking at the gear case, I see a fill plug on top and then a fill plug on the side. Next to the one on the side, it says oil level, or something similar. My guess is that oil will be poured into the top until it starts to come out the hole on the side, which would be the proper level.

Your guess is right on the money.. fill through top til oil comes out the oil level plug.

This machine is very low.

Am I on the right track with that?
What type of oil goes in these cases?

80W90 EP gear lube - But, TRY to find an older APSI oil classification (I forget the grade) because after a certain classification grade, the oil additives will eat away at bronze gears (which the worm gears are) But definitely gear oil, just need to do a bit of research on a grade and classification that are suitable for bronze worm gears..

I also noticed a little leakage coming out of the right side of the case in the rear, where the shaft for each side of the horizontal business end of the gear case is. Not sure if there's a seal or just a gasket over there.

They do have tine shaft seals both sides) and wheel axle seals, as well as side cover gasket (and some have rear cover gasket that is also used to set bearing pre-load, so be mindful of any shims if you do happen to pull one out) tine shaft seals are fairly common to replace (obviously) but can be a royal PITA if the hubs are well rusted to the shafts, sometimes to the point you'd do just as well to just completely disassemble the whole machine to clean up , re-lube , replace all seals and gaskets, and be sure to use anti-seize compound on re-assembly (wheel hubs to axles, and tine hubs to shaft, etc)

[38racing]

try this manual
web.ncf.ca/da229/smallengine/TROY-BILT-MASTER-SERVICE-BOOK.pdf

I see an 84 with your engine model but different type

[lefty]

I went with the carb kit for the 20595 and everything looks good. But the belt was way too long. So I think I just got lucky with the carb rebuild kit. Must be the same. Came with the fuel pump diaphragm as well.

I found another number on the gearbox. I put a link. It says 1225 and then something to the right that looks like a "C1" maybe?

I'm at a loss on this one. I've looked her over pretty good. Based on the pdf from 38Racing, there are some models with 4 digit numbers, but I can find 1225.

Hoping knowing that this belt is too big might help? To maybe identify another? I noticed on the same pdf that there are different till widths. Mine is a 16 inch looks like, if that helps. Sorry for this one.

Just noticed I forgot to add the picture. Sorry about that.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/UNDUW72DLe3U27WW9

[lefty]

Now I have a bigger problem. The shorter tube that goes into the "bowl" section of the tank has broken off. The plastic on this is super brittle. The longer extension tube, which I knew I had to replace, was crumbling in my hand. From what I can see, this is not a part that can be replaced. So I'm thinking that there has to be a new carb possibly? Or, is super glue a possibility? It's not completely broken off, just mostly.

The carb I have is the 90A on the schematic

https://www.partstree.com/models/130292-1664-01-briggs-stratton-horizontal-engine/2-carburetor-assemblies-0/

[bgsengine]

Now I have a bigger problem. The shorter tube that goes into the "bowl" section of the tank has broken off. The plastic on this is super brittle. The longer extension tube, which I knew I had to replace, was crumbling in my hand. From what I can see, this is not a part that can be replaced. So I'm thinking that there has to be a new carb possibly? Or, is super glue a possibility? It's not completely broken off, just mostly.

The carb I have is the 90A on the schematic

https://www.partstree.com/models/130292-1664-01-briggs-stratton-horizontal-engine/2-carburetor-assemblies-0/

No they are replaceable and still available - short tube is 497413S and it "threads" in (you can unscrew old one, or dig it out but careful not to damage the formed threads, new one screws in by hand, can tighten in with wrench, probably should use a hardening sealer or threadlock or pipe dope very sparingly, and allow to cure completely before assembly) the long tube , brass plus plastic extension (plastic extension is 391813, to install you need to run the locking sleeve up the brass tube , then heat the end of extension in hot water to fit it over the brass tube - if you do not heat it it will most likely split, and you have to get another one.. then work the sleeve clamp down over it to clamp it in place) brass tube is not really replaceable (no replacement part number, it is a super-tight press-fit, very very hard to remove without damage to the carb body)

[lefty]

Thank you. Any tips on digging it out? It broke flush.