TroyBuilt Tiller

[bgsengine]

probably an easy-out may do, or, with some patience you can scrape it out with pocket knife or ice pick or some such..

[lefty]

Got it out. Thanks for that info. I was worried there for a bit.

[Arkie]

You can finds lots of info about Gateway/MTD tillers at this link site.

When I say lots, Service manual, serial number lookup, parts lists. chzuck emailed me pdf's and links to download info for the old Gateway tillers that I was flogging and restoring. Once I got on the correct page with part numbers I found lots of parts on flea bay. I found that a owners manual had lots of good info, adjustments, parts and parts list. Owners manuals back then had lots of pages and good useful info, not like todays manuals which just usually list safety warning things like do not stick your tongue to the muffler when the engine is running, because it's gets hot, do not clean the tines when they are spinning, etc.

Locate a guy by the name of chzuck (Dirt digger) and send him a PM. He knows them tillers like the back of his hand.

Here is a link to the site to review or register and a link to a post that chzuck has replied.
I've been into them old tillers and chzuck can sometimes tell you where to look for a casting number that will ID the tiller for parts and parts interchange.

https://www.mytractorforum.com/forums/tiller-talk.214/

https://www.mytractorforum.com/threads/ ... t-12408045

[38racing]

I have one with the oil all leaking out around wheel axle. Wondering if I will be able to get the wheels off to fix it.

[KE4AVB]

Can be a challenge. They rust on tightly. IF you can get any movement you're in luck as penerating fluids can creep in but even with that it can a few hours of constantly working the wheels.

IF the owners would only oil/grease every so often sure would help.

[Skywatcher]

Hi 38

Had to replace axle seal on a Troy-Bilt Horse tiller a few years ago, here's what I did. Got a ¾" x 6" NC grade 5 bolt and had my local machine shop extend the threads up to the head. Used another ¾" NC bolt to position a matching nut on the end of the wheel tube and welded the nut onto the wheel tube. Once the nut was securely welded in place, used the modified bolt as a jacking screw along with some heat applied to the wheel tube and was able to get the wheel off the axle. Once the wheel was off, cleaned up the axle with emery tape and changed the seal. Hope this gives you some ideas,

Sky

[Arkie]

Hi 38

Had to replace axle seal on a Troy-Bilt Horse tiller a few years ago, here's what I did. Got a ¾" x 6" NC grade 5 bolt and had my local machine shop extend the threads up to the head. Used another ¾" NC bolt to position a matching nut on the end of the wheel tube and welded the nut onto the wheel tube. Once the nut was securely welded in place, used the modified bolt as a jacking screw along with some heat applied to the wheel tube and was able to get the wheel off the axle. Once the wheel was off, cleaned up the axle with emery tape and changed the seal. Hope this gives you some ideas,

Sky

Just some hints about removing the rims from experience.


I've heard of some guys that just removed the keeper bolt/pin and eventually the wheel would spin on the axle as the tiller was being used.
I had to do exactly the same thing as skywatcher mentions. Just weld the big nut onto the rim so as the bolt WILL PUSH AGAINST THE END OF THE AXLE. Do not hammer or jerk on the rim/axle or you will jerk axle C clip keepers loose that are located behind the seals. I think maybe the C clips are located behind the axles seals to keep the axle from sliding back and forth. Make sure they are in good shape and in place before installing new seals. They may have a thin metal thrust type washer between the back of the seal seal and the C clips to prevent the C clip from chewing on the back side of the seal. Just leave the big nuts on the rims when done. If you have tine shaft seals leaking it's quite common for new ones to leak even when the bearing and shafts are ok. China clone seals are not quite the right sizes for the ID and fit too loose on the shaft) I've used CR thin seals in this area and use two seals on each side with good results. You might see a thread post about such over at the Tiller Talk link I posted earlier where guys are asking about leaking seals on the Horse and Pony type tillers.
As skywatcher mentions it takes about 6 inches or so of threads normally to get the rim all the way off the axle. Instead of having that much threads I just backed the bolt back out and dropped in a spacer to push against so I would not have to use more threads on the pusher bolt. Some will require lots of red hot heat to the rim itself at the axle area on both sides of the rim. Be sure and let the air out of the tire BEFORE APPLYING HEAT and leave the valve core out to prevent the tire from becoming a bomb.

[KE4AVB]

Now , Now , We must eliminate our competition somehow. Heck the stock only lost a measly 2014 points today.

[KE4AVB]

I think maybe the C clips are located behind the axles seals to keep the axle e sure and let the air out of the tire BEFORE APPLYING HEAT and leave the valve core out to prevent the tire from becoming a bomb.

Hey Arkie I got a question. How do you let air out of a wheel with solid rubber tires? I got one Troy Bilt pony here with solid tires that the wheels are stuck on.

[Arkie]

Hey Arkie I got a question. How do you let air out of a wheel with solid rubber tires? I got one Troy Bilt pony here with solid tires that the wheels are stuck on.[/quote]

I'm not sure but you might ask the guy in this video link about your question.

Some guys just don't realize or have any idea the dangers involved in heating/welding a rim with a tire mounted, until it's too late.

Check this out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jBUVzgCHHuA

and some guys that had no idea remarks.
https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/th ... els.16857/