Husqvarna Tractor

[lefty]

So I have this pretty nice Husqvarna Tractor that was given to me. (Not sure if it is actually "nice" but since it was free, it feels nice to me)

Model Number: YTH21K46
Serial: 102609A014824
Product Number: 960450021 00

Kohler Engine: SV610
Spec: SV610-0212
Serial: 3928702953
Build Date: 10/14/2009
Family 9KHXS.5972GB
Type App: e1197/68SA*2002/88*0285*01
Displ (cc) 597

It did not run when I received it in the fall. Covered it and pulled it out today to give it a once over. I was told it ran but then stopped and the owner got a new machine and bailed on it. It ran but not well according to the owner. He wasn't super forthcoming with the info but he was giving the machine to me for free so I took it. He brought it to a local shop and they worked on it but the problem persisted. I pulled it out today and took the carb off. The after fire solenoid is very stiff. Very difficult to depress and doesn't rebound well. Takes a good 5 seconds to respond. The needle tip was cocked and broke off when I applied pressure to it. So I'd started on the carb. Gaskets were compromised during disassembly.

So I was thinking I would need a kit and a solenoid. I saw that there were a few options for new carbs, about $115-150 for an OEM and then like 20 for an aftermarket based on the numbers. But the aftermarket wiring is a little different. This carb has a red wire connecting to the solenoid and a ground wire from the carb body to the block. The aftermarket carb has two wires coming from the selenoid, a red and a black. Being a newbie, I was guessing the black is the ground but wasn't sure.

I was hoping to find a gasket kit and maybe a selenoid for it and stick with existing carb but can't find those on the parts list. So my second thought was to go with the aftermarket carb, just to make sure it actually runs well. Then down the road, If it does well, maybe fork up the big bucks for the OEM after I verify it's a good machine. I'm confused by the slightly different wiring scheme with the aftermarket, and whether or not it will actually work. Any advice?

[KE4AVB]

Oct 26 2009 unit. Boy that was a quick build.

IF you got an USC then clean the solenoid in it. May need to work the pin up and down a few times to get it fully clean. It worth a try considering how expensive these solenoids are. I seldom need to replace one.

[Luffydog]

If I am thinking right the two wire will work the red will plug in like in should and the black will have an eyelet for a screw for the ground

[bgsengine]

yeah they have updated versions of these solenoids multiple times, latest iteration does seem to be the 2-wire connector , red is 12v and black to ground. Older version was a single hot wire to solenoid and ground was through solenoid body to carb (which due to insulator, needed a green wire ground strap carb to block) But basically whatever the solenoid design, obviously it needxcs good switched 12v and good ground path, one way or another.

[lefty]

Thank you. I don't have an ultrasonic but now that I know it may be salvageable, I may take a run at it.

[lefty]

I went ahead and ordered a new carb for this one since it was so cheap. It has arrived and I'm noticing that the connector on the afterfire solenoid for the two wires does not seem to be biased at all. So it can go in either way. I can seem to figure out which is ground. Or does it matter? I'm thinking it does but maybe I'm wrong.

[bgsengine]

I went ahead and ordered a new carb for this one since it was so cheap. It has arrived and I'm noticing that the connector on the afterfire solenoid for the two wires does not seem to be biased at all. So it can go in either way. I can seem to figure out which is ground. Or does it matter? I'm thinking it does but maybe I'm wrong.

Doesn't matter.. although you may wish to take a close look for any ridges or splines on the connector body but polarity doesnt matter in this case.

[lefty]

Perfect. Thank you.

[lefty]

Forgive me for my naivete, but this new carb's connector for the red wire is also a female. I think I'm supposed to cut the end off so it will mate with the lead coming from the engine but I always like to verify before I make any modification for which there is no turning back. Am I thinking correctly on this?

Or I guess I could just cut them and solder them with some shrink wrap if push came to shove.

Scratch all of that. I just found that it's a connector that comes right off.