MTD Tractor

[lefty]

Here we go again.

Model: 13AH660F352
Serial: 1J208C30201

Engine: 28V707-1170-E1 Code: 981009ZE (the V in the model looks like it might be a U, which does exist but does not come up with the rest of the number)
https://photos.app.goo.gl/WJzxLJLFhifg1yBe6

So this is another one that shows two carbs, walbro and nikki. The one that is on the machine is a walbro. The last one I posted about also had a walbro but was supposed to have a nikki. Looking to try to figure out which new carb to get.

Also, this one had a choke cable and separate choke control that was being used-see photo. It also has the other lever hooked up for the choke that is engaged when the throttle is pushed to full. But the lever that pushes it doesn't quite reach. Is that adjustable? Meaning to I have an option or do I stick with the cable? Only reason I ask is because the cable is bending the plastic choke on the carb (guessing this is the wrong carb on here now). The blue circle shows the gap between the choke pushing mechanism at full throttle. Red arrows show the two choke connections, one of which is useless right now. The green arrow shows where the plastic choke is bending because of the bad angle from the choke cable. The choke cable anchors to the air filter assembly, which has been removed.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/YDYEbwZCYs8YXcBd7

Another weird thing on this is the muffler. It's kind of loose and looks like it may have been added aftermarket. It is awfully close to the fuel inlet on the carb. About 1/4 inch from the fuel line as it enters the carb. Is this normal? I can't find it on the parts diagram.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/YmDj2NSEeLEoz6As9

Thank you

[lefty]

On this same machine, both rear tires are in bad shape. Definitely candidates for tubes. I was able to persuade one wheel off by tapping on the partially installed bolt while prying away with a crowbar but the other is just too rusted on there. I'm thinking I could still do a tube with it. Has anyone ever installed a tube into a tire while it was mounted? Is it worth trying? I've heard horror stories from friends who ended up pulling the shaft out of the transmission trying to get the wheel off. I'm concerned there may be some type of e-clip in there or something holding the shaft.

[RoyM]

Briggs used whatever carburetor was available at the time, the replacement will sub up to a Walbro. The muffler will be MTD. Installig a tube with the wheel on might be your only option, you will likely destroy it and the transmission trying to remove it.

[bluemower]

The 28U707 is an overhead valve. The 28V707 is the flathead - same as your engine.

I suspect an older style muffler is installed on your engine. The older mufflers were used with the older flo jet carburetors. The newer style mufflers used the two small bolt holes to attach. My opinion is you should not take a chance with the fuel line located next to the existing muffler. Visit a boneyard to find a later style muffler.

Wheels rusted onto the axle were common on old MTD's. You might try installing a puller in the two small holes provided in the wheel hub, but if it is too tight it will not come off with out damage. Years ago, I was unable to remove a rusted wheel, so I pulled one tire bead off the wheel and installed an inner tube. Was not too difficult.

[bgsengine]

Here we go again.

So this is another one that shows two carbs, walbro and nikki. The one that is on the machine is a walbro. The last one I posted about also had a walbro but was supposed to have a nikki. Looking to try to figure out which new carb to get.

As RoyM said - OE carb could be walbro or Nikki - Current carb appears to sub to a Nikki Kit ultimately (799728)

Also, this one had a choke cable and separate choke control that was being used-see photo. It also has the other lever hooked up for the choke that is engaged when the throttle is pushed to full. But the lever that pushes it doesn't quite reach. Is that adjustable? Meaning to I have an option or do I stick with the cable? Only reason I ask is because the cable is bending the plastic choke on the carb (guessing this is the wrong carb on here now). The blue circle shows the gap between the choke pushing mechanism at full throttle. Red arrows show the two choke connections, one of which is useless right now. The green arrow shows where the plastic choke is bending because of the bad angle from the choke cable. The choke cable anchors to the air filter assembly, which has been removed.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/YDYEbwZCYs8YXcBd7

It isnt the original engine to the rider, I don't think.. They can be EITHER type choke, but not both - separate choke can be used (if it seems original) but have to adjust cable so it does not stress the choke lever. OR, you can adjust the "paddle" (circled in blue in your photo) to just touch the choke rod (in red) , *PROVIDED* that your throttle in dash on the tractor has a Top No Load detent (beyond which is a choke position) - you adjust that by moving throttle to full speed detent and the paddle just touches the choke rod, so when you move throttle to choke position it activates the choke lever (when the throttle cable is correctly adjusted) - adjustment is a fine tuning between full travel of the throttle control (on engine) and choke paddle, and the throttle cable.. HOWEVER if your throttle (in tractor dash) does NOT have a choke position, then I would recommend removing that choke rod and use the separate choke control (adjusted for choke travel)

Another weird thing on this is the muffler. It's kind of loose and looks like it may have been added aftermarket. It is awfully close to the fuel inlet on the carb. About 1/4 inch from the fuel line as it enters the carb. Is this normal? I can't find it on the parts diagram.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/YmDj2NSEeLEoz6As9

As RoyM Noted that would be an older style MTD muffler that would have been used on engines with the Briggs 1-piece flo-jet carburetor.. This engine should have a bolt-on square muffler with deflector (and carb should have the heat dam type mounting gasket)

Finally - Yes, many times I have installed tubes in tires while wheel remained mounted to axle (It is quite difficult though especially on a tire that has seen aging and dry rot- very hard to pop off the rim enough to get a tube in, and also quite hard to get tire back on without pinching the tube and putting a hole in it) But, if you can get tire to hold air enough you can probably regularly soak the rim hub in penetrating oil every few days as you run and use the rider, eventually it may read far enough in to break through the rust and you can slide it off without yanking axle out of the transmission..

[KE4AVB]

Or you just use a bearing separator and a hydraulic press. Of course you need to remove the transaxle so you put it in the press. Some time you just got to get creative to remove these wheels.

As far pinching the tube you just need to careful. Hey I do 4" and 5" rims at times installing tube but it is more common for me to do 6" and up.

[lefty]

Thanks for the info. I think I may try using a puller on it with those holes. The other side came off pretty easily so maybe that will be enough.

The throttle does not have the detent so I'll stick with the separate choke cable and adjust the position to prevent unnecessary stress on the choke lever.

Unfortunately, the tires only hold air for about 10 minutes before going completely flat so I'll have to either bet proactive with the removal or get a tube in there while mounted.

Thanks for the carb number. Is there a number on the muffler that anyone knows offhand? I can't seem to find it on the schematic. Also the heat dam. I'm not sure what these look like.

Thanks

[KE4AVB]

I believe you are referring to gasket between the carb and intake pipe. if so then it is PN 692284.

As the muffler refer to the following diagram for all the parts needed.
https://www.partstree.com/models/13ah660f352-yard-machines-lawn-tractor-1999-walmart/engine-accessories-muffler-4/

[lefty]

Thanks for that. I'm guessing that gasket is to insulate the carb from the heat on the intake, which is next to the exhaust port on this L-head? My concern is the fuel inlet, which is so close to the muffler. I think the only truly safe way to do this is to install the proper muffler, pipe and other parts you show in the link? Because that gasket doesn't do much to shield the fuel inlet and line from the muffler itself. The nikki does have a 90 degree on the inlet, which may help a little, but the inlet is still very close to the muffler. My guess is the majority of you would not risk it?

[lefty]

On a side note...How did you find that muffler diagram? I'm guessing it was based on the year? When I look up the machine, I see several results. I never really know for sure how to tell which is which? How did you know to go to that one?