That might be a big clue - have had the same sort of similar issues in some cars in the Ford shop I worked at common on some cars where (typically someone that keeps all their keys and assorted other junk on one key ring) - weight of the accessories on the key pulls down the body of the switch cylinder to an angle such that - on your switch - the internal contacts can lose contact if they are worn (quite common cause of a switch failure anyhow)lefty wrote: There was a pretty heavy metal key ring on the key so I removed it because it was getting in my way. Popped the switch back in and it worked.
As long as you also eliminate any easy way to re-install a deck later on (safety/liability issue really) I would not see any issue with doing so.I was thinking about eliminating the blade safety switch. I can get rid of a variable and I don't need it anymore since the deck is gone. I'm guessing simply disconnecting isn't enough? Do I need to complete that circuit manually?
38racing wrote:thought that I had posted but don't see it. press brake down as far as it will go whiling trying to crank it. The brake switch is on piece up raised up chassis and may need to be bent towards contact to close switch with pedal just in locked position.
lefty wrote:38racing wrote:thought that I had posted but don't see it. press brake down as far as it will go whiling trying to crank it. The brake switch is on piece up raised up chassis and may need to be bent towards contact to close switch with pedal just in locked position.
I was thinking the same thing so while I was troubleshooting, I was manually working the brake safety switch with a screwdriver to make sure it was getting fully depressed. Thank you though. I did notice that you really got to push that brake pretty far to actuate it.
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