MTD Tractor

[Gerry]

Check the fuse.

[lefty]

Fuse is good. Checked with a known good fuse.

[lefty]

If this is some sort of kill device, should I still hear the after fire solenoid? I'm getting nothing. Kind of like if there was no battery attached at all.

[KE4AVB]

Here is the wiring Schematic for your 660 series. If notice there is appear to be two fuses. one in ground circuit.

[lefty]

Thanks for that. I think it may be the switch. I checked for continuity between the battery and solenoid, ignition, all the safety switches and such. When it was all apart, I turned the key and heard the click I was waiting for. When I popped the switch back in the dash, it stopped working...popped it out, it worked. There was a pretty heavy metal key ring on the key so I removed it because it was getting in my way. Popped the switch back in and it worked. Spent the next 10 minutes trying to replicate the problem but no luck. I've wiggled the crap out of all the wiring wondering if it was a short somewhere but it works fine now. The switch is old, metal with a large nut that holds it in the dash. I checked the wiring I could trace for any signs of broken insulation or anything but it all looks in good condition. So at this point, I'm going to run her and try to replicate the problem. I may even try a new switch just to eliminate that.

I was thinking about eliminating the blade safety switch. I can get rid of a variable and I don't need it anymore since the deck is gone. I'm guessing simply disconnecting isn't enough? Do I need to complete that circuit manually?

[bgsengine]

There was a pretty heavy metal key ring on the key so I removed it because it was getting in my way. Popped the switch back in and it worked.

That might be a big clue - have had the same sort of similar issues in some cars in the Ford shop I worked at common on some cars where (typically someone that keeps all their keys and assorted other junk on one key ring) - weight of the accessories on the key pulls down the body of the switch cylinder to an angle such that - on your switch - the internal contacts can lose contact if they are worn (quite common cause of a switch failure anyhow)

I was thinking about eliminating the blade safety switch. I can get rid of a variable and I don't need it anymore since the deck is gone. I'm guessing simply disconnecting isn't enough? Do I need to complete that circuit manually?

As long as you also eliminate any easy way to re-install a deck later on (safety/liability issue really) I would not see any issue with doing so.

[38racing]

thought that I had posted but don't see it. press brake down as far as it will go whiling trying to crank it. The brake switch is on piece up raised up chassis and may need to be bent towards contact to close switch with pedal just in locked position.

[lefty]

Thank you. I plan on stripping everything off of it. Every hanger and even the deck lever. I want to maker here lean. This is going to be my own little pony. My Z-turn with handle the lawn.

[lefty]

thought that I had posted but don't see it. press brake down as far as it will go whiling trying to crank it. The brake switch is on piece up raised up chassis and may need to be bent towards contact to close switch with pedal just in locked position.

I was thinking the same thing so while I was troubleshooting, I was manually working the brake safety switch with a screwdriver to make sure it was getting fully depressed. Thank you though. I did notice that you really got to push that brake pretty far to actuate it.

[bgsengine]

thought that I had posted but don't see it. press brake down as far as it will go whiling trying to crank it. The brake switch is on piece up raised up chassis and may need to be bent towards contact to close switch with pedal just in locked position.

I was thinking the same thing so while I was troubleshooting, I was manually working the brake safety switch with a screwdriver to make sure it was getting fully depressed. Thank you though. I did notice that you really got to push that brake pretty far to actuate it.

One more point on these - It is also possible to push the switch button TOO Far in and it moves past the internal contacts, on some switches it is even by design to defeat the "hackers" that will tape or glue or otherwise fasten the switch plunger fully down, on other switches it just happens that way (part of switch contacts corroded or grease hardened up and lifted contacts away from each other, etc etc.) just something else to bear in mind..