Husqvarna Blower

[lefty]

180BT

965 18 59-03 (Some other numbers on there that I can't figure out what they mean)

Serial: 81004572
Manuf: 2008

This is my own personal machine that I've had for 12 years. I purchased it new from a dealer. It's run excellent for me over the years and I take good care of it (kind of). It's had light use. I have about a 1/2 acre and for 10 of those years, I used it for fall and spring clean up. Probably about 3 hours in the spring and 3 in the fall. I lend it to a neighbor who tacks about 2 more additional hours per season. For the past 2 years, I've also been using it has my weekly clean up after mowing during the summer season. I mix it 50:1 per spec and always send a can of fresh mix when I lend it out.

During my spring clean up a month or two ago, I noticed it slightly bogging every 30 seconds ago just briefly, and then after warming up for about 10 minutes, it would go away. Lately, the bogging is becoming slightly worse and lasting longer, so I thought I'd go through it for the first time. It's the original air filter, pre-filter, and plug. The air filter and pre-filter look brand new but the plug has seen better days.

Sorry for being so long-winded but wanted to give an accurate background. Upon opening it up, I noticed a significant amount of green oil around the choke area in front of the metal screen. It was dripping out of there. Also, a significant amount of carbon build-up in the exhaust port on one side of the port, kind of building up a little higher as it gets closer to the piston. My guess is that the carbon is my own fault for keeping that old spark plug for so long.

Do I attempt to clean that carbon out of the exhaust port? If so, how? I'm afraid of getting it into the cylinder. And could these issues be causing my problem? Or should I be going through the carb with a rebuild or even replace it with an aftermarket?

Lastly, I know carbon can be a problem with these 2 strokes but I'm perplexed by the green oil in the intake. I've never seen that. It's very green and clean. It had no odor of gas at all.

Edit: The exhaust screen is clean.

Thank you.

[KE4AVB]

Walbro WYA-44

Repair kit K20-WYA

Walbro K20-WYA - eBay

Position piston below exhaust port, remove carbon, and blow any left over out with compress gas via the spark plug hole.

[bgsengine]

Position piston below exhaust port, remove carbon, and blow any left over out with compress gas via the spark plug hole.

Really? what happens to the bits of carbon that fall into the transfer ports?

Echo recommendation is position piston at TDC or so that exhaust port is completely blocked by piston, use soft plastic or wooden scraper to chip away carbon (soft to avoid scratching piston, etc) - then what I do is turn so exhaust port is at a "down" angle in relation to the port, and pour in a small dose of mix gas to spark plug hole then rotate piston til exhaust port opens, gas washes away the worst of the carbon and then with exhaust port open , shot of brake cleaner (or Sensor safe spray carb cleaner) via spark plug hole.

[KE4AVB]

Only the exhaust transfer should be unblocked, the intake transfer port is usually a little lower in the stroke and should remain blocked but at TDC works too as BGS recommends. Just don't left in the cylinder to score the cylinder wall or hang the piston and ring(s).

But my understanding of two cycles transfer process maybe off.

[bgsengine]

Only the exhaust transfer should be unblocked, the intake transfer port is usually a little lower in the stroke and should remain blocked but at TDC works too as BGS recommends. Just don't left in the cylinder to score the cylinder wall or hang the piston and ring(s).

But my understanding of two cycles transfer process maybe off.

Most of them, intake transfer port will be starting to open as the exhaust port *begins* to open (much like 4-stroke valve overlap) - outgoing exhaust helps to pull in fresh mix (you'll always lose a little raw gas through exhaust) and also explains the "spitback" through carburetor... Also, on stratified 2-strokes (carburetor will have a separate fresh air valve) where they draw in a plain fresh air charge that sits between the burned exhaust and the fresh gas/air mix (another emissions compliance technology)

It really does sometimes vary between manufacturers, but It'd be kind of hard to have piston below exhaust port without an intake port or transfer port being open also, or it'd be losing some of the efficiency of the out-flowing exhaust helping to pull in fresh fuel charge... But either way, main thing is preventing any carbon bits (which can be harder than steel) from getting into the cylinder or ports.. so I'd tend to go with having the piston skirt (and no visible rings) blocking exhaust port - It won't hurt much, if any, if the skirt gets a bit of light scratching as long as a soft enough scraper is used to keep from nicking anything , and with port pointing down before moving piston once cleaning is done, gravity takes care of any bits that might fall freely, and the wet gas flowing down as you move piston down takes care of the rest of it..

[lefty]

Thank you. I noticed an additional port on the rear of the engine with a cover secured by two diagonally mounted screws. Is this some type of inspection port? Or maybe an alternate mounting position for an exhaust?

[KE4AVB]

Those are part of the transfer ports. There is actually two of these shown in the IPL of the engine. They are different from each other too.

And on my previous post about having the piston uncovering the exhaust BGS is right as I checked about a dozen used cylinders here and 3/4 of have the transfer port opening about halfway of the exhaust port. The others were right at the bottom of exhaust port so I recommend doing as BGS said in his post.

[lefty]

Thank you. I did all that, new filters, plug and the carb kit. Started 2nd pull and runs mint. Hasn't run this well in years. Thanks again.