puzzler Kohler k301 just stops

[38racing]

I thought 5 years ago that it might have been valve and all the seafoam fixed it. New carb on its way but thinking about dosing oil with Marvel mystery oil and gas with seafoam. There's compression release on the exhaust and rise at tdc is much higher than the blip on a briggs. I'm wondering if it's not deactivating completely and dropping compression. Maybe the Marvel will free it up.

[38racing]

Another reason I agree with you that it could be exhaust valve is that the backfires out the muffler only happen if I let it stop with key on. If I turn key off as it slows down then there are no backfires.

[38racing]

Been hot here. Thought I'd try new carb that came but it's missing the ball joint for the throttle rod. I found a good deal for the ball on amazon.ca. just $92 cdn lol. So I decided to leave old carb and do oil treatment with MM oil. Drained oil. Hopefully it's been changed a few times since it has problem before. Capacity is 1.9 litres. I add 1.4 from one jug. Then added .1 and then .4 of MMO. Ran for about 6 minutes before it shutdown. After few minutes I restarted and after about a 10 minute run I shut it off icluding fuel valve. It was getting late. Puzzled though when I checked oil after it sitting it seems overfull. Not gassy. Stupid me didn't actually check refill level before starting the first test run. Busy babysitting today.

[38racing]

Just reviewed the original post and most of the replies may apply. I would like to share my experience with an early cub equipped with a kohler 341. This occurred about 25 years ago.

the owner stated he had taken the cub to several repair shops and a similar problem was not resolved. The engine would start, but within a few seconds the engine would misfire and soon quit. As I examined the engine, something did not look right, so I compared the engine with a Kohler on my Troybilt. Apparently, the owner had somehow ripped off the external condenser while mowiing. Without any other adjustments or repairs, a new condenser solved the misfire problem. Others may explain better, however, the condenser absorbs voltage as ignition points open. This prevents arching across the points. With arching, interference with flux build up and induction will occur. A technician may not see this using only a gap spark tester.

Just explained the problem to my automotive mechanic. He suggests that condenser may be heating up and throwing the timing. It would cool quickly and explain the quick restart. Going to order a condenser.

[38racing]

So I replaced the condenser. It ran a full 18 minutes. Figured it was fixed but then it shutdown. I checked fuel tank and could see fuel but I'm wondering if outlet is raised to stop crap. I refilled tank with much more fuel and it ran for 33 minutes before I shut it down. Had other stuff to do. I will try cutting with it tomorrow.

[38racing]

well I went cutting the cemetery next door.Ran perfect for 20 minutes and then shutdown. Checked fuel level, lots in take. restarted fine but it was too late to try another test run.

[DennyIN]

Replace the wire from the points to the coil.

[38racing]

Replace the wire from the points to the coil.

Will do. What's the theory?

[bgsengine]

poor connection at terminals, those wires, over time can end up quite brittle and break apart within the insulation the break may just touch together when cold until it warms up.. hardened insulation also can break down over time... crimped terminals may experience fatigue after many many heating/cooling cycles (wire expands, the crimp separates and looses, etc, etc) Usually by the time they get that bad, one terminal end or the other will have broken off anyhow, and the wire replaced... but it's always worth looking into (resistance check with wire unhooked, perhaps?)

[38racing]

I guess I should install a new point set too. Had be reluctant but I now realize that they are external so no flywheel to pull. I guess I should have expected that as it's automotive style coil setup.