lefty wrote:I adjusted the intake to .006 and still the same. No problem with starter at .006.
I checked the valves several times and they seem to be holding their clearance. I worked the valves by hand and I'm not noticing any sticking. I also tried to inspect that when I had the head off to lap them. I was looking for any sticking or play.
But it did start right up after putting a little gas through the spark plug hole. So we're getting close. So I'm guessing this could be a problem with either valve? Exhaust not sealing during the intake stroke maybe?
I'm confused though because I just lapped the valves and am getting solid scores on my leak down.
I'm no engineer, not much of a mechanic either with my inexperience, but why wouldn't they put the decomp bump on the exhaust valve, especially with such a long intake manifold? Gas needs an Uber to get from the carb to the cylinder.
Just a couple thoughts.
I would probably hook up my leak down tester and get the engine 1/4 inch past TDC, (OR at the TDC area setting recommended by Briggs for when adjusting the valves on that engine) Lock the flywheel and inject air and use my finger and gently push open the intake valve and try to wiggle it slightly as it closed by it's own spring pressure. Do not let it snap shut hard. You are trying to see if the valve is always seating good and checking for guide wear.
OR maybe first keep on opening up the clearance on the intake valve to see if you can get it to suck fuel. Open it up to where the decompression is causing the starter to lock or hang then go the other way reducing the intake valve clearance.?????????????
If you do not ever get the engine to hanging up on the intake stroke maybe the lobe is worn on the cam or the decompression is ?????maybe someone with chime in with a second opinion.
If dumping fuel into the cylinder gets a run then you either have a intake valve issue or for some reason the decompression is coming in too soon on the intake stroke???????????
I would confirm that dumping fuel into the cylinder (by removing the spark plug)
always gets a good startup first before testing other things, just to make sure I'm not getting side tracked and led astray. (which happens to me quite often)
Be gentle when re-installing the plug, I've know of some of them plug threads eventually stripping out if you tighten it little too much each time into the aluminum, they even strip sometimes coming out.
Also you are going to have to keep the bat charged up and do not overcrank the starter, you are probably about to lose the starter or the fiber bendix gear already from crank testing.
AND if you want to save your bat charger ALWAYS unhook one lead or unplug it
BEFORE cranking the engine. (even if it's the type that says it's a crank charger) Cranking while the charger is connected is what wipes out (KILLS) 99% of bat chargers and if the manual even lists a warning as such it will say do not crank the engine over 5 SECONDS with the charger connected.
If a engine won't start after the battery is charged and the charger disconnected, the cranking system needs immediate repair before continuing, instead of burning up the charger.