MTD Tractor Starting problem

[lefty]

Will do. Thank you for the heads up.

I'm going to have to sand it a bit because there's a tiny roll of metal at one side of the key grove on the crank. Looks like the key pushed the metal a tiny bit as it started to shear.

Regarding that key, I see two options on the schematic, both are number 24 on the crank assembly schematic.

https://shop.briggsandstratton.com/pages/parts-lookup#/Briggs_%26_Stratton/331777-1107-B1/Camshaft%2c_Crankshaft%2c_Cylinder%2c_Engine_Sump%2c_GASKET_SET_-_ENGINE%2c_Lubrication%2c_Piston%2c_Rings%2c_and_Connecting_Rod%2c_Warning_Label/3317771107B1/40220002B/y

One is for date code after 12071600
The other for code before 12071700

Aside from being thoroughly confused by that seemingly contradictory information, my date code looks like 080320ZD.

[38racing]

I think ke4avb has posted about a change from aluminum to steel keys on some briggs engines and an increased torque spec. Might be in the downloads section under bulletins.

[lefty]

Super helpful. Thanks to both of you. I found a post from last year and the docs.

I guess my confusion lies with the fact that I can't see where my date code fits into the scheme. But I think I've figured it out reading the docs.

I think.....

My keyway appears to be the one that is cut parallel to the centerline, not the taper. So I think I'm supposed to use 796335, which appears to be the older shorter key. Assuming that's correct, does the increase in torque specs and addition of a washer still apply?

I apologize but I'm having trouble wrapping my brain around this.

[bgsengine]

Super helpful. Thanks to both of you. I found a post from last year and the docs.

I guess my confusion lies with the fact that I can't see where my date code fits into the scheme. But I think I've figured it out reading the docs.

.

you said:

my date code looks like 080320ZD.

Translation: build date 2008-03-20 (March 20th, 2008) Then you noted:

One is for date code after 12071600
The other for code before 12071700

Those translate to: AFTER 2012-07-16 (Date of the change) or BEFORE 2012-07-17 Since your date code is from 2008, it is WAY before the change happened, so you'd use the old version, yes.

However the new torque spec along with washer, if it is the one I am thinking of, only applied to the new flywheel/crankshaft/keyway (I might be wrong, I didn't read the bulletin to refresh my memory) so you'd use the old values for older date codes (unless the crank was changed to the new style, with new flywheel, etc)

[lefty]

Thank you. I get it now. Date code. Different than a serial number. In fact, I think you may have told me this in the past. Thanks again.

[lefty]

This is my concern. You can see that she's plowed out a bit. And there's a tiny roll of metal on the right side that I'm going to need to clean up. But do you think that this crank needs to be replaced?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/PP6LtSm74qD1v49X9

[38racing]

This is my concern. You can see that she's plowed out a bit. And there's a tiny roll of metal on the right side that I'm going to need to clean up. But do you think that this crank needs to be replaced?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/PP6LtSm74qD1v49X9

When my neighbour's crank key way was damaged by engine pulley running loose I inserted some key stock in it and pressed jb weld into the damaged end. Then small file to make sure key in pulley would fit.

[bgsengine]

This is my concern. You can see that she's plowed out a bit. And there's a tiny roll of metal on the right side that I'm going to need to clean up. But do you think that this crank needs to be replaced?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/PP6LtSm74qD1v49X9

Its been sheared quite a while. The CORRECT repair is to replace the crankshaft. However, you can do just fine by filing down the burr (and the rolled out portion) smooth to the crank to match the taper where it should be, then use a long piece of key stock, filed down so it slides smoothly in and out of groove in crank and flywheel.. install flywheel, and pull out the key stock (which should have flywheel lined up properly to the crank as originally meant to be) and then install new key and tap it in lightly as far as you can.

Before installing flywheel though I would leave the key out and work with a file and emery cloth until the flywheel spins smoothly all around on the taper, then remove flywheel. put a smear of colored grease (thin smear) on the inside opposite keyway , then with flywheel positioned 180 degrees out of time, press it on to the taper and then remove it again, you will be able to see in the grease smear a good impression of how the flywheel seats in the crank so you can spot any high spots in either flywheel or the crank and file them down to get as perfect a fit as you can.. then completely clean off all grease, install flywheel as I mentioned above, and then torque it down, you should be in good shape for the repair job to "stick" this time..

[lefty]

Thanks. When you say key stock, do you mean just a long key that spans the full length of the keyway for alignment? Aligned on the strait side so everything lines up?

[bgsengine]

Thanks. When you say key stock, do you mean just a long key that spans the full length of the keyway for alignment? Aligned on the strait side so everything lines up?

'Zactly .. Key Stock is typically standard square sized steel bar you can find at hardware and auto parts stores - just call it Key Stock and most non-brain-dead sales people will be able to point you to it - typical sizes are 1/8", 3/16", 1/4", 5/16", 3/8, 1/2 though most places only stock the more common sizes.. but almost always they'd have 3/16 and 1/4 key stock if they have any at all.. commonly sold in 12 inch lengths , some places may let you buy "by the inch" and cut off the length you need but I'd just get some straight 12 inch length stock - that way if you need to, you can use pliers or other tool to help pull the key stock out of the matched-up slots (and you'd like to have 3/16 key stock handy any way, if you have folks that lose their keys out of their rear wheels when changing tires on riders.. "I fixed a flat tire and now it won't move" - Oh yeah, they lost the key.... )