Ariens Tractor Burning Smell

[bgsengine]

Thanks.

Is this normal? This is the intake rod. There's a worn out area toward the rocker end, right about where it passess through the plastic guide about and inch from the end. Looks like some type of shoulder.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/GvQGjYcgxNoSspcj6

Normal wear, yes, but not good -In other words, not unusual to see that, BUT should definitely plan on replacing that.. new ones are straight and smooth.

[lefty]

Will do.

So here's what we got.

Cylinder with the piston at the top. I see a little weirdness on the gasket next to the galley. By the way, all of the gasket ended up on this side so there's really no pieces attached to the head, if that helps. https://photos.app.goo.gl/me6J2qQ3fVG96Cd36

Here's a shot with the cylinder at the bottom. As far as the cylinder itself, it feels very smooth with my finger. I can, however, just barely, grab a tiny snag with my nail in one spot. Tough to see here but there are a few visible verticle lines. Like I said, not really significant but I can barely snag one with the nail only. Can't feel anything with the finger (whatever that's worth). https://photos.app.goo.gl/sRV6R2EfD6AZ1UBDA

This is a photo of the underside of the gasket, the side that would mate with the engine (atfer removed). There was nothing left on the engine once I removed this gasket so the part that is missing next to the galley is gone. Not sure if that's a blowout but thought I should show it. https://photos.app.goo.gl/Sxma8v7XeqowNvf56

If I could offer a hypothesis, I've seen a lot better compression on cylinders that were in a lot worse shape. I think the gasket is the main culprit here as KE4 said, there sounds like way more air was in the galley than at the dipstick. I did a second leak down with the valve cover removed and there was definitely more air coming out of there than the dips stick. The dipstick sounded more like the normal kind of stuff that would pass the piston, from my limited experience.

Thanks

[KE4AVB]

Definitely a blown head gasket. I just one a couple week that even blew the metal liner out before completely quit running. I had to tow the mower to my shop for repairs.

[38racing]

Yep the typical blown head gasket. I've seen a push rod broken at that wear point. I always reverse the push rods when I do the head gasket but that one should be replaced.

[lefty]

I will do that then. Thank you.

[lefty]

It just keeps getting better.

While I had the head off I figured I would clean it up, check it for any warpage, and give the valves a nice touch-up. I noticed when I took it off, the intake valve was missing its little cap. And what appears to have happened as a result is the end of the valve has gotten a little hammered up. Mushroomed a bit and there's a little bur all around it. So it won't come out...get's hung up.

I'm thinking I need to file that bur off so I can slide it through but before I do, I wanted to check in because I don't want to ruin the guide. The new head gasket came with the seal that goes in there, which I'd be looking for some guidance on how to replace if it is necessary. I've never done one.

I'm also guessing we're going to need a new intake valve. And do you think since I'm doing it, should I do the set?

Have we heard of this? And more importantly...where is that little guy. I know that there was someone in there before me...and I know who they are and that they shouldn't have been in there so I'm guessing it fell off while the cover was open and it's not knocking around in there.

Thanks

[lefty]

I just moved this over from another thread...from which i posted this in error. It applies here.

This is the exhaust. This does look like the replacements I'm seeing on the schematic. Is this one hammered too?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/TjU5DYkkYyjM511X7

Or are they supposed to be like this and not have a cap. I'm confused now.



Here's the intake valve. This is the one with the bur, which you can see.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/jWfE1cHG9Uitdnkt8

[lefty]

As I'm searching the internet, I'm finding two different images for the same part number. One looks like the one I have, which has a short shoulder and stout end.
The other has a much taller shoulder and a tapered end. Is this normal?

[bgsengine]

As I'm searching the internet, I'm finding two different images for the same part number. One looks like the one I have, which has a short shoulder and stout end.
The other has a much taller shoulder and a tapered end. Is this normal?

depends on the model and spec - you should really just get the parts catalog for your engine and look up the part number that applies for your model-type-date code never depend on some aftermarket (or ebay) "It fits this model" cross references as they are often wrong (or greedy and claiming more fitment than they should in order to sell parts) if you order the correct part number from a reliable supplier (one that will ship an OEM part when you order OEM) then you don't need to worry about images.

*edit* also, just read back up a bit - and yes you want to get rid of any burs - I'd probably suggest replacing the valve, and if it is hammered, then you'll also want to order the valve cap - yes they are easy to fall off if you remove valve cover and loosen rockers (or remove head to replace gasket and don't notice the caps, they fall off and go missing)

[lefty]

Thanks. I ended up cutting the end off in the narrow shoulder area. I didn't want to risk scratching the guide. Needs to be replaced anyway. I was getting the part num from Briggs site. There schematic is not clear enough to see the end of the valve but I'll put my faith in the part number with a reputable source. Thank you.