John Deere

[jerkputter123]

I own a 2011 John Deere riding mower model D 110 with the 19.5 briggs. It just hit 200 hours and I need to check my valve adjustment. Does these engines use valve cover gaskets or silicone ? I want to do this today but need to make sure before I start I got everything I need. I am 10 miles from the closest parts place or any place as far as that goes.
Also in the past I have used the high prices turf-gard oil and JD oil filter. It only takes 1.5 quarts and it needs changing, All I got in the shop is Castrol 10w30, Will this be ok to use ? The oil filters are also like gold, Won't a WIX be just as good. I know these air filters look just like the ezgo air filters I used on the TXT golf carts years ago. I also need to change it.
Thanks for any info on this

[RoyM]

Your oil will be fine. I used Wix filters for years and never saw any problems with them. I am seeing a number of unknown brands on the shelves and won't touch them, they are probably made offshore. Same with air filters, stick with known names even if they cost a little more.

[Skywatcher]

Hi JP

To go along with what Roy M says, any major brand SAE-10w30 oil is acceptable. I believe John Deere have their oils blended for them by Imperial Oil (Esso), so any equivalent oil would suffice, just stay away from the real cheap no-name brands you can pick up at Wal-Mart etc. As for filters -- Wix, Purolator, NAPA and even Fram are acceptable if you are in a pinch. I have used Stens brand oil filters on these engines for over 15 years and never had a problem.

Now to adjusting the valves. Park the tractor on a slight up-hill to reduce oil spillage when removing the valve cover. Remove the 4 bolts holding the cover, if the cover comes off easily, it has a gasket that can be reused as long as it's not damaged. The gasket should come off with the cover. If the cover does not come off easily and you have to separate it from the head with a scraper, it's most likely held on with silicone.

Once you have the cover off, remove the sparkplug and rotate the engine clockwise by hand to observe the valve action. Rotate the engine until you see the exhaust (upper) valve open and start to close. As the exhaust valve is closing, you should see the intake (lower) valve just starting to open. This is top dead center exhaust stroke. Now rotate the engine 375º and you will be at the right position to check the valves.

You indicate that you are 10 miles from anywhere, 10 miles is purely a matter of relativity as to whether it's a long way or not. Out here in Western Canada, we think nothing of hopping in the car and driving 10 miles just for a beer. In England though, 10 miles takes you through 3 villages, one small town and almost into the next county. I always recommend to have an air filter, oil filer, oil, set of blades, both belts and a valve cover gasket on hand in your garage. Drive belts usually break on the Friday afternoon before a long weekend when all the stores are closed until Tuesday. All the best,

Sky

[jerkputter123]

That seems an odd way to adjust the valves ? but I will give it a go

31P677 0236 G1 100823ZD

I got to round up a the tool to adjust them with and find the exact way on what to turn.

I have adjusted hundreds of valves on engines but never one of these briggs. This one seems backwards on how to lock it when adjusting. Maybe a manual would help or video. You are saying the exhaust is on top ? because there is no way for me to tell as the intake and exhaust manifolds both line up pointing to each other ?

Thanks for your advice. I removed the valve cover last night and it was quite a task to get it off. Had no gasket . I think they used loctite on it lol

I think I have read where these things valves get loose after so many hours and come apart . The manual I got with mower said this mower ( D110 ) intake valve sets at 0.003 -0.005 inch Exhaust 0.005-0.007 I just need assurance that the exhaust is on top. I also think I turn adjusting nut and hold inner bolt but I am not 100 % sure

[KE4AVB]

Go to the download section under Briggs and download the Single OHV service manual.

I don't where you got the 375 degrees figure but Briggs just want you to be 1/4 inch pass TDC compression stroke. Yes the exhaust is the one closest to the flywheel as the ACR is on the intake. Also note that the intake has a aluminum push rod that needs to be checked for wear.

What Briggs sealed the rocker cover on with is usually Permatex Ultra Black RTV (some were Ultra Grey RTV). To loosen the valve cover take a 2x4 block of wood. Place the 2x4 on one of the sides of rocker cover (on the narrow edge of the 2x4). Using a heavy hammer strike the 2x4 to loosen the cover. Basically you are shearing the RTV. Remember to remove the screws first. You will still need a scraper to remove the cover but it will be easier. Of course clean up the mating surfaces afterwords.

When using RTV make sure the mating surfaces are free of oil. Apply RTV and install the cover screws finger tight. DO NOT start the engine as oil will prevent the RTV from fully curing. Let the engine sit overnight then torque to 65 in/lbs.

[jerkputter123]

[quote="KE4AVB"]Go to the download section under Briggs and download the Single OHV service manual.

I don't where you got the 375 degrees figure but Briggs just want you to be 1/4 inch pass TDC compression stroke. Yes the exhaust is the one closest to the flywheel as the ACR is on the intake. Also note that the intake has a aluminum push rod that needs to be checked for wear.

What Briggs sealed the rocker cover on with is usually Permatex Ultra Black RTV (some were Ultra Grey RTV). To loosen the valve cover take a 2x4 block of wood. Place the 2x4 on one of the sides of rocker cover (on the narrow edge of the 2x4). Using a heavy hammer strike the 2x4 to loosen the cover. Basically you are shearing the RTV. Remember to remove the screws first. You will still need a scraper to remove the cover but it will be easier. Of course clean up the mating surfaces afterwords.

When using RTV make sure the mating surfaces are free of oil. Apply RTV and install the cover screws finger tight. DO NOT start the engine as oil will prevent the RTV from fully curing. Let the engine sit overnight then torque to 65 in/lbs.[/quote
]
I got the 375 degree from the person (Sky) who posted here yesterday. I think he was explaining that once it is on the exhaust stroke you move it 360 degree more then the 1/4 inch which would amount to just about that.
I got the valve cover off with a hammer and large screwdriver. I didn't dent anything as I hit it on all four corners lightly until it broke free. I used my wire wheel at my shop last night to clean the valve cover. Now I will get a knife or something to clean the head.
My wife picked up the Red RTV silicone which should be fine.
I will check the aluminum push rod and see what it looks like.
When the engine reaches the intake compression stroke and I move it 1/4 inch more both valves should be closed so I assume I can then set them .

Thanks for your help.

[RoyM]

That is where you want it to ensure the lifters are not contacting the lobes. Skywatcher is saying the same thing in a different way, he is turning the flywheel until the exhaust valve is closing as the intake is opening. Now rotate the flywheel one full revolution, 360 degrees, to bring it to the top of the compression stroke then 15 more. The piston is now the power stroke and the valves are fully closed.

[jerkputter123]

All this trouble and they were fine. No need for adjustment. Looks like new inside also with no wear on the intake pushrod . Skywatcher's way is pretty neat and it works the same as what the manual said.

I now understand these engines are different adjusting the valves than other 4-strokes. Everything is backward from what I was used to but I got it fine. It was just hard for me to remember to jam the center bolt while holding the nut after doing it the other way on things I have worked on all these years.
Thanks, I really appreciate the help on this. Never would have got it if not for you all.

[Skywatcher]

Greetings All

I had a feeling that some of you would question the 375º of rotation, so I'll explain where I'm coming from. When setting the valves on an inline 6 cylinder diesel engine, you can't just take the injector out and shove a piece of wooden dowel or chopstick down the hole to feel where the piston is in order to find TDC. You use what's called the running-mate principal. Pistons 1 and 6 are running mates as are 2 and 5 and lastly 3 and 4. When the valves of cylinder # 1 are in the scavenge stage, that is both very slightly open due to the overlap, you know that # 1 is on TDC exhaust stroke, therefore its running mate in cylinder # 6 in on TDC compression stroke so can have its valves adjusted as both cam followers are riding on the base circle of their respective cam lobe.

On these single cylinder engines, with a compression release system, you know that when both valves are very slightly open as the intake valve starts to open just before the exhaust valve closes, the engine is on TDC exhaust stroke. Because a single cylinder doesn't have any running-mates, you have to make a note of where the flywheel is (usually in relation to the ignition coil). Now turn the flywheel 360º and the engine is on TDC compression stroke. Now if you stick a chopstick or wooden dowel in through the sparkplug hole and rotate the flywheel so the chopstick follows the piston down ¼", you'll find the flywheel has turned about 15º. Therefore the 360º past TDC exhaust stroke plus the 15º past TDC compression stroke gives you the 375º I'm talking about. Hope I haven't confused too many forum members with my transferal of diesel engine techniques to small engines. All the best,

Sky

[KE4AVB]

Sky, Thanks for the explanation; although, I don't see we need to over complicate these adjustments on these small engines. It probably why I just use the old method where when the one valve is fully open adjusting the other one. For me it is much easier then hunting a dowel which I seem to always have used for a woodworking project.

Now when it comes to larger multiple cylinder I see the need as you are dealing with more than two cylinders.