Personal Pace Electric Issue

[KE4AVB]

Don't think so. Cable itself don't normally stretch but the cable housings do wear internally which effectively make the cable seen to longer or they cause the cable to bind on the housing.

[lefty]

The old cable seems to actuate the mechanism enough to disengage the kill wire and pull the flywheel break away from the flywheel mostly with it dragging just a bit. But it doesn't move far enough to disengage the interlock switch, which is why the electric start wasn't firing.

The new cable, in its most relaxed position, doesn't allow the break to engage the flywheel and renders the kill wire ineffective. When the handle is engaged, it moves the mechanism so much that the piece that is supposed to make contact with the kill wire actually moves so far that it interferes with the starter teeth on the flywheel.

Maybe I need to try a different supplier for the cable. I got this one off of Amazon. I've had pretty good luck with cables on Amazon. This one got good reviews and there appears to be only one for this machine so I know I got the part number right.

Maybe I'll try an OEM.

Thanks.

[38racing]

is there enough exposed cable that yo can put a u type clamp on it to shortened it a bit.

[bgsengine]

The old cable seems to actuate the mechanism enough to disengage the kill wire and pull the flywheel break away from the flywheel mostly with it dragging just a bit. But it doesn't move far enough to disengage the interlock switch, which is why the electric start wasn't firing.

The new cable, in its most relaxed position, doesn't allow the break to engage the flywheel and renders the kill wire ineffective. When the handle is engaged, it moves the mechanism so much that the piece that is supposed to make contact with the kill wire actually moves so far that it interferes with the starter teeth on the flywheel.

Maybe I need to try a different supplier for the cable. I got this one off of Amazon. I've had pretty good luck with cables on Amazon. This one got good reviews and there appears to be only one for this machine so I know I got the part number right.

Maybe I'll try an OEM.

Thanks.

Since the cable part number has changed you may want to look into the rest of the components (bail lever, attachment points, etc) to see if there's any part number changes there, too - wouldn't be unusual to see the OEM issue a new part number cable in an "update kit" form that includes additional pieces that retrofit the older unit to the updated version, while the aftermarket supplier just supplies the cable (and no kit pieces)

[lefty]

I think what has happened is that someone tried to replace this cable but got one that was too long so they bent the lever on the brake assembly to try and compensate. So that when I put the right cable on, it was too short. I was able to find a used replacement brake assembly on eBay for 10 bucks. Just waiting for that to come in. I could probably do what 38racing said regarding a modification to the existing cable but I thought for 10 bucks, it's worth checking out. After looking at a pic of the proper brake assembly, it definitely looks like it's been dickered with in some fashion. I'll report back once resolved.

I tried to bend it back... heat it up and such. But it's just too thick of a gauge and not enough leverage can be gotten without mangling it.

Looking to give this machine to a relative since she doesn't have the leverage to pull a starting cord...too short...her, I mean.

Thanks for the advice.

[lefty]

Link to the image below. I'm so depressed. So I found a used mechanism online for 10 bucks and was so proud of myself. The original one was bent (yellow circle) so I figured that was why I was having an issue. This was true. The new mechanism didn't come with the switch for the starter but I have that. What I didn't realize is that the used part I picked up does not have this little tang that actuates the switch (red arrow). The blue arrow is the switch lever.

So right now, with my new cable and new bracket, everything is operating properly except I can't actuate my switch. I was thinking of maybe cutting it off the old bracket and welding it to the new one. The old bracket is in the photo. The new one is the same except it's not bent and it doesn't have that little tang (red arrow).

Does anyone have a better suggestion? It was very difficult to find this part. Is there a more creative way? Do I even need that switch? From what I can gather, it shuts down the starter when the operator lever is released. I tried bending that yellow circle area but I just can't get enough leverage. Someone bent it though, on purpose or by accident.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/hhvyL3seaj4s5Cy97

Thanks.

[lefty]

This isn't an exact match but I'm wondering if it will work.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lawn-Boy-Briggs-Stratton-Brake-Switch-796387/203131850476?epid=0&hash=item2f4b9a0eec:g:uf8AAOSw3lRfffz~

[lefty]

I have a new issue with this one.
Just to refresh your memory...
Toro Model: 20041
Serial: 250089749

Engine: 125K05-0186-E1 05042756

This one has me stumped...big surprise, I know...

The engine will not prime. It's the one with the primer bulb and the circuit through the cleaner housing. I've tried a new bulb. Tried a different cleaner housing in case this one was warped. Using new gaskets and even tried a new carb. I can get it to prime with a little compressed air through the hole in the bulb.
The circuit through the cleaner housing is clean. The screen in there is clean. When I press the bulb, I can tell a bit of air is shooting through that circuit and the hole on the gasket is properly lined up with the hole on the front of the carb.

It's almost like the little primer bulb doesn't have enough pop to push fuel up. What am I missing?

Thank you

Edit: The 2nd air box I tried is not new. It came out of my parts box. Maybe they are both warped?

[KE4AVB]

Lefty is always finding problems but isn't that what we all do.

Take look see at the impression left on the air cleaner base gasket . You find that part of it isn't making good contact. I usually make up a wedge gasket to apply more pressure in the area of no contact.

Also make the replacement base is the correct one as there is at least a couple different ones out there now.

[38racing]

Two gaskets seems to be needed often plus a found a video where the guy used some tape on the housing.