122Q02-0001-H1 . Ready start Carburettor

[wristpin]

The IPL shows a 799226 carb and a 799177 needle and seat kit. The carb that I have has a soft tip needle and no sign of a seat and the float does not sit as level as I would expect. This 2013 machine has history and has been back to the shop that sold it, used , several times . On the last visit this new carb was fitted. There are two carbs shown on the IPL but both with the same needle and seat kit. The soft tip needle suggests to me no removeable seat but there's no sign of that option. Alternatively is it safe to assume that someone has blown the seat out. My 276781-8/09 repair manual makes no mention of a removeable seat.
Any thoughts please.

[RoyM]

With a viton tip there won't be a removeable seat. What has been the complaint?

[bgsengine]

With a viton tip there won't be a removeable seat. What has been the complaint?

Right. Appears he knows that , what he is asking is should it be a viton tip or not? IPL's can be incorrect in images, but may wish to check using the type and date code numbers (which can be important too) to see if carburetor had been updated to a version that did use a viton tipped needle? If you put a viton tip needle in a carb that uses a needle and separate viton seat, then you gonna see problems (usually float will be too high, meaning too much gas in carb bowl) ..

On the other hand, FYI, wristpin, some viton tipped needles DID come with replaceable seats as a kit, so it may still be a needle & seat kit ... May have to bite the bullet and order a kit and find out.. But if I recall 799177, it was indeed a viton tipped needle.. I don't recall it having a seat (but I may be thinking of one of the dozen or so other needle/seats...) and it may be that when you get one, you may find only the needle... even though packaging itself may sometimes even say needle & seat kit.... (usually not, but briggs has been known to have some of those fall through the cracks at various times.. )

But as RoyM said.. perhaps if you explain what the actual issue is, who knows, it might turn out to not even BE the carburetor at fault..

[wristpin]

Thank you, both. Machine arrived hunting badly + low oil+ short reach plug + a blade that had been sharpened from underneath! Stripped the carb and put it through the u/s tank. On reassembly I noticed that the float was not as “ parallel” as I would expect - low at the needle end. Machine started first pull and performed perfectly . As a retired person I’ve only got access to the IPLs posted by a couple of UK parts suppliers and neither of those give any type or code clue to a variation , just the same needle and seat reference and illustration. I’m probably fussing about nothing but I may phone BS in the UK. All the guys that I knew when working have moved on to greater (or lesser) things and the last person that I spoke to there appeared to have a classroom MST and no real world experience.
Thanks again.

[KE4AVB]

Well Wristpin, first you have the wrong service manual in use. The correct manual is the 279000 manual. Currently Briggs Power Portal only lists the Japanese version. But I have the English version listed in the downloads here as file 19_279000. Also you need to look at ASPI 98 service bulletin in case it has the spring loaded needle valve as the float will sit lower touching or nearly touching the carburetor body when inverted.

Second according to the image of the 799177 you have a removable brass (maybe plated silver/chrome) seat.


Another possibility is that the other shop installed the wrong carburetor.

[wristpin]

Interesting, but that’s not the needle and seat in the IPL - I will know for sure on Wednesday. The repair manual 276781 , Single Cylinder OHV Air Cooled Engines, shows the carb that I have , we will see on Wednesday.
Thanks again.

[KE4AVB]

I have learned not to go by ipl images but by the part numbers. They can however even be wrong at times.

[wristpin]

Thanks and apologies for wasting people’s time. It transpires that the previous seller / repairer has fitted a pattern part carburettor . I’ve suggested to the owner that either he bites the bullet and authorises me to fit a genuine BS item ( around £70 uk pounds)., or dumps the issue back on the seller.

[KE4AVB]

Thanks and apologies for wasting people’s time. It transpires that the previous seller / repairer has fitted a pattern part carburettor . I’ve suggested to the owner that either he bites the bullet and authorises me to fit a genuine BS item ( around £70 uk pounds)., or dumps the issue back on the seller.

Wirstpin,

This is something I seeing more of lately where a DIYer buys a clone will fit carburetor and expects it to be the right one. Personally I will only buy a clone if only the OEM is NLA and then I am taking a chance that it wont be right. Plus some mechanics should never ever touch an engine as all they do is makeshift repairs. I got several larger than me shops in the area that I have to redo their work as they as just cobble stuff together. To me it is an insult for this to be happening.

The most misunderstand carburetor is the one that everyone seems to try to buy a clone for is the single barrel Nikki carburetor. To me it is one of the easiest carburetors to repair once you understand how to repair it.

What worst is potential customers here see that I work out of a two car garage mainly doing repairs outdoors. They want to call me a shade tree mechanic. So I do on Summer day work under a tree, I am not stupid; asphalt gets very hot here (140F+ on some days). Those customers that are willing to give me a try find out I do a lot better work than the shops with large buildings here. Oh it is sometimes near basket cases but once I get those done I usually get easier repairs later from same customers. Plus I do get referrals from these customers.