Old TroyBilt Tiller Carb

[lefty]

Related to this same machine and coming along a little later....

I finally got a new carb for this and I'm having an apparent governor issue, which may not be a governor issue. The new carb operates well enough but it's behaving as if the governor spring is too tight or the governor is not operating properly. The RPM's seem too high. At about 1/4 throttle, they are at 3000 rpm. It doesn't sound or feel right as I've heard this machine run in the past. Could this be a defective carburetor? My gut tells me no but I don't know what else to check. The linkage is pretty simple.

Briggs Engine: 130292-1664-01 Code: 83012607
Carb is: 299437

Thank you.

[bgsengine]

Yeah you really need a tachometer.. I used to be able to judge RPM by the feel of it too, but found that there were some types of equipment, mountings, and engine builds, that the same "feel" actually came from different speeds.. a Tachometer should be a priority for anyone working on small engines regularly .. they're fairly cheap these days.. anywhere from $15 (if you find em in stock or used) to $79 and up .. even many accessory maintenance meters also have a built-in tach reading (although they are not perfectly accurate, they're close enough for 4-stroke work)

[lefty]

The tach was how I came up with those numbers. I took your advice a couple of years ago and picked on up. I just threw the sound and feel in there to illustrate that I have knowledge of how it was running before I started working on it.
So yes...it's my fault that it's not running right now.
I probably should have mentioned that. Maybe I should try to manually actuate the governor while running to try and narrow it down some more?
Or maybe reset the governor?
There are two possible locations for the governor spring to connect to the throttle lever. I am almost 100% sure I reconnected it to the right spot when I reinstalled the gas tank bracket, which is what the throttle assembly is attached to. The other connection at no point puts any tension in the spring so it can't be that one.

[KE4AVB]

The tach was how I came up with those numbers. I took your advice a couple of years ago and picked on up. I just threw the sound and feel in there to illustrate that I have knowledge of how it was running before I started working on it.
So yes...it's my fault that it's not running right now.
I probably should have mentioned that. Maybe I should try to manually actuate the governor while running to try and narrow it down some more?
Or maybe reset the governor?
There are two possible locations for the governor spring to connect to the throttle lever. I am almost 100% sure I reconnected it to the right spot when I reinstalled the gas tank bracket, which is what the throttle assembly is attached to. The other connection at no point puts any tension in the spring so it can't be that one.

That does help to mention that you have a tach in use.

Normally RPM issues after new carburetor is install is usually more likely a governor issue. Since it apparently was there before I would either you a miss connected spring or may have some moved the governor linkage. If not of connection point and you are using prior parts there should be wear indication marks as to where things were before.

[creia]

Lefty,
Is the "new" carb you got OEM Briggs or aftermarket?
Michael

[lefty]

Aftermarket I believe. It wasn't the cheapest though.

[creia]

Aftermarket I believe. It wasn't the cheapest though.

Could it be issues with the carb? I have no experience with these aftermarket "Pulsa-Jet" carbs, although I have thought about trying one. The ones I see on eBaY generally go for about $ 50.00 shipped. Maybe someone else has had experience with them and will chime in...
MIchael

[Arkie]

You say it's a clone carb (not a OEM carb)
and You used the same gov and carb linkages and it has a throttle cable?
What I have done at times with good success when I've subbed a carb and done the STATIC GOV adjust for the replacement carb but the rpms are too high from the governor or throttle cable is
INSTEAD of allowing the governor to fully open the throttle when doing the static setting is back off the governor clamp just little bit at a time so as to not allow a full open throttle static setting from the governor and also pay attention to the full open manual throttle cable clamp.

Summary: If all else fails try reducing the full open throttle static governor setting and may have to also back off little on the full open manual throttle open linkage at the cable clamp at the carb. If this reduced static governor setting causes the governor to be to sensitive (hunt or surge) take a piece of survey tag wire and trial and error make a shorter link wire from the governor arm to the carb throttle plate.
(effectively limiting the wide open throttle carb setting from the governor and manual throttle)
Use your now governor linkage wire as a pattern for a shorter one.

[38racing]

could it be something as simple as throttle cable adjustment. Lock cable with lever at max and engine at 3600 rpm?

[lefty]

It's hitting that a little early...somewhere around 1/2 or 3/4 throttle. I'm going to play with it.