Old TroyBilt Tiller Carb

[lefty]

Thank you. The last link threw an error but I watched the videos. I think I'm going to start with maybe doing what someone had said in the beginning, retarding it a little bit to see if that helps. What do you think? If I understood correctly, I'll follow the normal governor setting protocol except that instead of holding it wide open, I'll hold the throttle maybe 75% open. Thinking that will set the governor with less tension in the throttle spring given it more power to close the throttle. Is this line of thought logical?

Edit: I said throttle spring but meant governor spring.

[Arkie]

Try this link for the video. If it does not work just try the search.
Mainly what I wanted you you see is at about 1:51, 1-57 in the video you can see that the normal governor adjust is only 45 degrees for full rotation of the governor shaft with the engine not running.
As bsengine noted do not start the engine or DO NOT the adjust the shaft backwards at ccw and secure the nut or stuff can break internally

Try this link to see
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B12rX9pWtTk

or do a browser search for this

Briggs and Stratton 5HP - Governor Adjustment - Model 135202

[lefty]

I was more thinking that I would adjust the shaft clockwise and then push the governor arm down slightly while keeping the governor shaft paddle firmly pressed against the little plastic rod that pushes out from the gear to the paddle. Effectively, getting more of a clockwise turn on the governor shaft in relation to the throttle and reducing tension on the governor spring. In my mind, I was thinking this would give the governor an advantage when trying to close the throttle as there would be less opposing tension. I may have to adjust more after that but figured I'd use that as a starting point. Am I thinking wrong?

I have a second question if I could. When I look this engine up I only get one result. 130292-1664-01 Code: 83012607. But the engine that comes up is not the exact same. My engine has a pulley that runs off the cam, the reverse pulley. The camshaft is extended and travels outside of the case. The diagram that comes up doesn't have this. How do I find the right diagram for my engine? In case I want to replace the oil seals. The second smaller seal for the camshaft is not in the gasket set for the one that comes up.
https://shop.briggsandstratton.com/pages/parts-lookup#/Briggs_%26_Stratton/130292-1664-01/Cylinder%2cGearCase%2cPiston_Grp/130292166401/8090002ADL/y

I know what you're saying about starting this without a properly working governor. Rest assured that I'm right on top of this thing every time I've started it since I noticed it running incorrectly a few days ago. I always start it squatting down next to it with one hand on the throttle at the carb and the other on the rope. So I can keep the throttle closed and control it. I also have the air filter unscrewed so I can choke it out if anything goes wrong. I'm not taking any chances with it until I'm 100% sure it's running right. Since the governor gear is intact, I'm assuming that the problem is on the outside.

[KE4AVB]

It is listed as item 20 on the IPL, page 14/15. PN 391484 (1/2 Auxiliary Drive Shaft) superseded to 691952. The problem is the aux shaft camshaft isn't listed. The info I found on this is that the seal is 1/2 ID x 1 OD

The spring rate would be the same. But yes I have done this to take some play out the governor flyweights.

[bgsengine]

The problem is the aux shaft camshaft isn't listed.
.

yeah I do not believe they bothered to change that over from the paper manuals... if I recall correctly the camshaft was a Note: in the paper catalog.. (I can remember doing my parts lookups in those.. my OEM Briggs parts catalog was over a foot thick not including binders) any case, I'm betting those camshafts are long ago and far away obsoleted... perhaps a check in the notes section of the briggs online parts catalog?

[KE4AVB]

The problem is the aux shaft camshaft isn't listed.
.

yeah I do not believe they bothered to change that over from the paper manuals... if I recall correctly the camshaft was a Note: in the paper catalog.. (I can remember doing my parts lookups in those.. my OEM Briggs parts catalog was over a foot thick not including binders) any case, I'm betting those camshafts are long ago and far away obsoleted... perhaps a check in the notes section of the briggs online parts catalog?

I had a couple of those catalogs gave to me. Let me get the forklift out... ...later today to see if that paper IPl is in there.

[Arkie]

Something strange here that you did not ever feel or see the gov arm tension pulling the throttle towards closed and fighting you if you tried to rev up the engine????

Make sure that the governor clamp is not slipping on the governor shaft after you make the static adjustments. Be careful and do not over tighten the clamp nut and break the clamp.
After making the static adjust see if you can hold up on the Gov arm and start the engine at idle and after the engine is running carefully try to pull down on the governor arm to rev up the engine. You should feel a resistance due to the governor's flyweights inside the engine and have to fight the governors arm tension to rev up the engine.

Copy and Paste: From the first few suggestions and replies at the top of pg 4 is what I'm referring to.

Lefty - try this: unhook governor spring from governor lever entirely for testing purposes, see if the internal governor will hold throttle closed (and if it will even try to fight you moving the throttle lever on carb by hand)

Disconnected the governor spring allowing the governor its full governance. She ran away on me. I was able to hold her down manually by holding the throttle on the carb but as soon as I let go, it shot up to 3000 very quickly.

[lefty]

I know what you're saying. But after opening her up and finding the governor intact, the only thing I can think of is that I didn't actually set the governor correctly. I can't think of anything else that could have caused it. Maybe when I loosened the clamp I didn't loosen it enough and only thought I had turned the shaft all the way clockwise. Maybe it got hung up and I thought it was turned all the way. It's the only other thing I can think of. Unless the weights got hung up somehow. In any event, they seem to move freely now. I almost have it all back together so I'll let you know how it goes.

[lefty]

Got it back under control. So either the weight was stuck or it was my error...my money is on the latter. Now I just have to deal with a fuel weeping problem between the carb and tank. I changed the gasket and it was thinner. Someone must have crashed into something because the tank bracket doesn't line up with the hole on the block. I'm thinking of doubling up on the gasket in the hopes that may stop the leaking. In fact, that may have been what tweaked the governor initially. I'll readjust the governor once everything is finalized. But I don't know because the old gasket was wet so it's obviously been leaking/soaking up some gas for a while. Anyway, we're on the right track I guess. I'd like to bend that bracket back into shape but if I can get it to stop leaking without it, I'd rather not risk it. Thanks again.

[creia]

Lefty,
I have cured MANY of those carb to tank leaks with great success. Years ago, I tried the "2 gaskets trick" but about 1/2 the time it did not stop the leak. The problem is the base of that "Pulsa-Jet" carb gets warped. It gets bent down at the 3 mounting hole location tabs, possibly by overtightening. I use a small straightedge like a feeler gauge, place it on the bottom of the carb at various location while holding it up to the light. You will easily see light coming in at the low spots. The high spots are around the 3 mounting hole tabs. Then , using SMALL Dremel with a tiny sanding drum, I take off just enough of the high spots to make it flat again. You have to go real easy and keep checking otherwise you will dig a hole and take off too much. (Guess how I know? ) Some of these carbs were warped WAY out of specs, but I was able to get them fIat again with no leaking. I have done at least 30 carbs this way in the last 10 years and have never had one of them leak a bit.
Michael