Old TroyBilt Tiller Carb

[38racing]

Laying grit paper on a solid flat surface and rubbing carb base over it might level it off.

[lefty]

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll be tackling it today and will report back.

[creia]

Laying grit paper on a solid flat surface and rubbing carb base over it might level it off.

This engine has a "Pulsa-Jet" carb with those 2 fuel pick up tubes extending from the base which would need to be removed first, which I would not recommend.
Michael

[lefty]

I have a new carb I could try.

[lefty]

That old carb had the crap bent out of it. The whole bottom plate was out of wack. Everything lines up much better with the new carb. Thank you.

[creia]

I have a new carb I could try.

OEM Briggs or aftermarket? If the latter ,(suspected), I am very curious as to how it performs. I have seen those listed on eBay for about $ 50-60 shipped
Michael

[lefty]

Aftermarket. I paid $34.98 before tax, free shipping on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08JPPSC44/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1ZW8UUMD8PTG7&psc=1

It performs like crap. But it's performing. Having trouble dialing it in. It runs smoothly under load but sounds rich otherwise. I started at 1.5 turns out and have to drop it to like a 1/2 turn out to get it smooth. But I'm worried about being too lean so I backed it out a bit.

The choke is a little floppy. Have to hold it out while starting. It's the one with the little button choke at the end of the carb that you pull out.

I didn't check it while it was out but I suspect the long pickup tube may be a wee bit shorter. The same amount of gas was in the tank but it was just short.

Lastly, the throttle spring/linkage interferes slightly with the rubber air filter grommet. Just a tiny bit. Not a big deal because I think you'll set the idle screw to kick in before it becomes an issue. But it works more or less. I'll keep working on it. I don't have much of a choice at this point since the old carb is all bent up. I'm going to see if the owner wants to shell out for the OEM. The up side is that I ordered it and it took about a week or more to get here. In the meantime, I had taken another run at the original carb and got it clean and running well. So I put in for a return and the seller returned my payment and told me to keep it. Came from China (obviously). So it was free.

Thanks

[creia]

Thank you lefty- I really appreciate the report on these aftermarket Pulsa-Jet" carbs! I have thought about trying one out- not so much now that you provided your feedback. Seems like they are cutting corners in a number of areas (no surprise) I am offering my services (free of charge to you) to try and flatten out the base of the OEM carb you have with the technique I use. By the time you add shipping costs in for both ways, however, it might not be worth it. If you want, send me some good photos of that OEM carb base to my direct email michael.moore@charter.net and I'll take a look at it to see if I might be able to salvage it.
Michael

[Arkie]

creia:

After posting the questions below I stumbled onto a old service manual in my Briggs stuff for the vacu and pulsa jet carbs. See where some tubes are recommended need to be tapped and threaded for 12-24 so as to replace securely.

I've found some of the old ones where a tube had vibrated out of the carb and just pressing back in would not hold.


This engine has a "Pulsa-Jet" carb with those 2 fuel pick up tubes extending from the base which would need to be removed first, which I would not recommend.
Michael[/quote]

Do any of you guys have any idea about how to re-secure the tubes in those pulsa jet carbs really secure so as they do not come out due to vib's?.

I think some are both brass and plastic mix.

I think some of the older ones have a ball check in the tube.

[creia]

The longer tube is always brass (at least the upper half) and depends on a tight press (tap in) fit to hold it in place. If the end of tube is worn or the hole in the carb body is wallowed out (and the tube is loose after you tap it in) you are pretty much screwed. Years ago, I experimented trying various sealants (JB Weld, Seal All, etc.) in an attempt to "glue" the tube in- it was a dismal failure. With time and exposure to gasoline fumes and vibration, the tubes would always eventually loosen and fall out. Maybe someone else has used another technique with success?
Michael