Tecumseh Head bolts/Recoil Shroud

[lefty]

Craftsman 143.756012; Serial 5315D
Seems to cross to: H060-75487N

This is on a tiller that has been sitting for many...many years. I need to get the recoil off to clean out some mouse habitats. It appears several of the head bolts assist in holding it on. Do I risk warping the head by completely removing some head bolts while others are left fully torqued? Does this mean I have to remove and re-torque all of the head bolts? And does this also mean I should do a head gasket?

Thank you very much.

[bgsengine]

Nah, should not have any trouble that way *IF* you can actually get the head bolts loose/removed without trouble.. Have had as many as 5 of the 8 bolts removed *some you also have to remove a fuel tank bracket) just be sure you have clean threads and torqued to specs with only light oil on the threads only (not dripping off) and it should be fine.. heads rarely if ever warp in those cases where engine is not running at all and engine not hot (although if you have to heat the head or bolts to get them loose, then probably take them all out, clean carbon and a new head gasket.. *IF* you can get them all out without breakage)

[lefty]

Thank you.

[38racing]

I use a hand impact to start the loosening of head bolts.

[lefty]

I'll try that. Thanks. Going to let them soak overnight, for what it's worth.

[Arkie]

The main ones to watch are the Two that are by the exhaust port. (one on each side)
I use a 6 point socket 3/8 drive and a small 3/8 breakover for good feel and to see wiggle movement at first, instead of a big 1/2 inch drive. You can feel better as to the torque you are applying with the smaller drive breakover.
I vibrate (with a blunted air chisel tool set on low air pressure) or tap on top of the head bolts with a brass hammer before trying to loosen them. I have a air regulator mounted right at my air chisel and a mushroom headed insert and can set the blunted punch on top of the bolt pull the trigger on the tool and start turning up the air pressure slow and at around 25-35 lbs the tool's punch will start sounding like a wood bee (carpenter bee) if held tight against the surface or head of the bolt and will break up the corrosion deep inside the threads. I also use this method quite often to take off rusted exhaust manifold bolts and nuts on Vec's and other things where heat or penetrating oils are not useful.
Sometimes if they don't want to loosen try a gentle nudge in opposite direction. Tapping on top of the head bolt does more good than trying to apply heat, but on some small engines you can remove the muffler and actually see the heads bolts shanks on each side of the exhaust port.
I take the bolts to a wire brush wheel and clean threads and use little bit of anti seize and make sure the holes in the block are not full of crud before going back.

If you want to save the head gasket do not loosen or take out all the heads bolts at same time.

Them old Tecumseh OEM type heads gaskets were the good ones with reinforced steel and usually can even be re-used if the head needs pulled. If you have to lift off the head and you then it's a good time to check the timing if it's a points type engine. Some of the later model H60's were electronic Module magnetos (Pointless) and prone to failure and the cheap China clone NEW Mag's from flea bay were also a toss up getting fire, but once you found a good one they lasted ok. (bad when first installed as NEW)

[creia]

All of the engines I work on are 40-50 year old (mostly) Briggs and (some) Tecumseh, so I run into this a lot. I use a good sized flat tip punch and go around and give them multiple and repeated whacks on top of the head bolts before I even try to turn them. Using PB Blaster, Gibbs, or otherwise trying to soak them in any type of penetrant really is not very effective because you cannot get it down and into the threads where it will actually help.
Michael

[lefty]

Thank you

[creia]

Thank you

Report back to us with your (hopefully) progress....
Michael

[lefty]

This went well. Thanks for all the help. If I could ask another question on this same engine...

The recoil starter is acting up. Kind of hanging up on the way back in. I'd like to lube it up, troubleshoot...etc but ran into this:

The screw holding it together has a weird little thing sticking out of the phillips head. Looks like a little piece of round with a plastic sleeve. Almost like it's welded in there or something. It doesn't seem to perform any meaningful task but it's in my way if I want to remove that screw. What is this thing and is it important? Thanks.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/QUuyBHboeHH4seey6