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Intro and my current personal project

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Intro and my current personal project

Postby Scrubcadet10 » Wed Aug 11, 2021 10:06 pm

Hi everyone.
Decided to join after reading some threads and seeing it mentioned from time to time, seems like a good place with alot of knowledgeable folks.
I do small engine and mower repair work for folks around town and mostly word of mouth is my advertising... I'm not a "dealer trained" or a "Tech", just learning on my own and reading threads when i come to an impass. so far haven't been able to Not fix something, never you say never need help, either.
currently i have my Poulan Woodshark (P3314WSA) tore down waiting on a P&C and gasket kit... cylinder was scored up and piston wasn't great... figured i'd rather learn on my own equipment before i screw someone else's equip. up :roll: :lol:

Thanks for having me.

-Scrub :usa:
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Re: Intro and my current personal project

Postby KE4AVB » Thu Aug 12, 2021 7:41 am

Scrub,

The following base manual will have your screw torques and some repair info. Doesn't cover your specifically but does in a way as most Poulans are basically the same. The stratified (air head) carburetor came after this manual was wrote so they are not covered.

Also pay close attention to the old piston orientation as is unique as some of the porting is done via the piston. Now it been about 6 yrs since my last Poulan rebuild so I don't remember off the top of head which direction it faces. I just learned to always pay attention on disassembly as for piston orientation. If I am thinking correct the ports faces the carburetor side but make sure on your end before piston removal. I just wish they would mark the orientation.

The image below is of the NCC plated piston(530071883) but plain non plated piston (530071882) is the same design.

Image
Also we do have image size limit of 600 x 600 dpi so most image may require resizing. Plus must be hosted off site by a site like Imgur or similar image hosting site.

When I did the conversion from a non plated cylinder the new cylinder looked so rough I thought it would never work but to my surprise it work better than I thought. It is because some of the nickel of the Nickel Ceramic Coating burns off during the initial break in and leaves only the ceramic coating.

The conversion to the NCC cylinder with plain piston was a project here for a new saw the customer had straight gassed and left it for parts. Originally the 4218 had a plain cylinder and NCC piston. Note the NCC piston will not fit the NCC cylinder. And the plain piston will too loose in the plain cylinder. At the time I spent nearly $100 repairing the saw but since it was myself it was reasonable to have what would have been a $180 saw plus I ws self training myself at the time. Now of course since I got a distributor the costs are considerably less at $51. But at that cost plus my labor most customers still will not repair the saws. Plus it is time consuming to do these repairs and customer don't care about anything other than the final cost is less than a new saw so I only do these repairs for myself. Now more expensive saws customers will do it at times.

Poulan Chainsaw Repair Manual

Some service manuals for the Poulan saws are rare. Now the Husqvarna 135 chainsaw very similar but its service manual is on a as needed basis and I can sent it by email upon request. Both manuals will help out on understanding of the repairs of the Poulan saws. Besides not every Tom Dick and Harry needs access to Husqvarna chainsaw manuals.
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Re: Intro and my current personal project

Postby Scrubcadet10 » Thu Aug 12, 2021 9:17 am

Thanks KE4, much appreciated for the manual, and yes i took pictures on my phone as well as sharpie marked Carb side and Exhaust side of the piston. but the ports do face the carb side.
I think i have the Plated piston as on the exhaust side it looks like some plating has burned/wore off the piston. i'll post a picture of what i'm seeing a bit.
EDIT:
here's the pics of the piston...
Image
Image
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Re: Intro and my current personal project

Postby Scrubcadet10 » Fri Aug 13, 2021 3:44 pm

i received the parts today.. however the 4 carb insulator mounting holes, cylinder mounting holes and muffler holes were not tapped.. I know the proper taps to use thanks to a member.
can't wait to get this thing running...

is there a "break in" procedure for chainsaw/2 strokes (maybe a 5 hour oil change, lol :lol: ) some say run it like you stole it, others say baby it for awhile...

--Scrub
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Re: Intro and my current personal project

Postby bgsengine » Fri Aug 13, 2021 4:06 pm

Scrubcadet10 wrote:i received the parts today.. however the 4 carb insulator mounting holes, cylinder mounting holes and muffler holes were not tapped.. I know the proper taps to use thanks to a member.
can't wait to get this thing running...

That's the usual - The bolts that go in those holes are self-threading, they cut their own threads.
is there a "break in" procedure for chainsaw/2 strokes (maybe a 5 hour oil change, lol :lol: ) some say run it like you stole it, others say baby it for awhile...

--Scrub

if properly assembled, and new OEM or known correctly running carb (not too lean) , set the carb adjustments to the max rich limit on the limiters, start and let it run at idle for several seconds to warm up a little, then you can start revving it up and get it well warmed (3 minutes run time or more) before final tune & adjustment of the carburetor, tweak it a little on the rich side (it'll lack performance) for the first half hour run time or so, then final tune and adjust for best performance. Other than that, regular 50:1 mix with a good quality (Stihl, Echo, etc) mix oil formulated specifically for chainsaws will get you best results. (Me, I'd recommend Echo's Red Armor)
How poor are they who have not patience. What wound did ever heal, but by degrees? - Iago (Othello Act II, Scene 3)
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Re: Intro and my current personal project

Postby Scrubcadet10 » Fri Aug 13, 2021 4:44 pm

Thanks for the tips!
i tried threading one in with torx screwdriver, it went about 2 turns and it' got pretty tough, they don't appear to have the usual shape of a self tapper either, just flat bottomed and not the usual shape you'd think would be a self tapper.
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Re: Intro and my current personal project

Postby Scrubcadet10 » Fri Aug 13, 2021 6:00 pm

I guess those were Self tapping screws :D a little bit of liquid wrench helped. the cylinder is now sitting back in it's home all sealed up.
Thank you very very much.
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Re: Intro and my current personal project

Postby Scrubcadet10 » Sat Aug 14, 2021 7:42 pm

fired up the saw this evening, got it set just on the rich side of both adjustments (forgot the number turns :roll: ) any way..... if i rev it up, and let off.. it stays revve'd up for about 1 second after i've let off the throttle...
it still has some if it's same characteristics as before, idles forever but hates starting up hot..
i'm not sure where to go now, and this is why i don't like 2 strokes... i've never been able to comprehend them very good. 8-)
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Re: Intro and my current personal project

Postby KE4AVB » Sun Aug 15, 2021 6:59 am

Sounds like an air leak. Have you pressure/vac tested the engine?

As for the starting issue did you do the carburetor? Sounds a fuel leakage problem. The needle can leak when the tank pressurizes and a stiffen metering diaphragm doesn't help. To check for a leaky needle pressure the fuel in side of the carburetor to about 7 - 11.5 psi. Depending the metering lever spring strength pop off can occur before the 11.5 psi. I have found around 8 - 10 psi more inline. Besides my tester may be off slightly gauge wise. It must hold this pressure for several minutes. Most manuals I have read say if it holds pressure its good but I shoot for 30 minutes that way I know it is fully sealing.

This is from the Stihl carburetor manual.
Image

And yes even though two cycles are simple engines they can be a pain to get right as everything got to be right. In one sense they are more difficult to repair.

With me training my self on these it is hardier for me to diagnose problems remotely as I usually got to have the engine in front of me.
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Re: Intro and my current personal project

Postby Scrubcadet10 » Sun Aug 15, 2021 10:34 am

Carb is OEM Zama as of november last year.
I fired up the saw this morning, it seems whatever is causing the air leak, or high idle etc. gets worse as it warms up. cold, i could rev it, and it drop right back down to idle, once it got hot it took it awhile to idle back down.
i do not have a vac tester so i will track one down.
I did toy with the low speed adjustment some and that seemed to fix the starting issue, even hot it fired up 2nd pull every time and revve'd good... just kind of hard for it to idle back down as you know....
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