Briggs 10 HP on Generac Generator

[Dale_W]

Model: 19G412
Type: 1187-E1
Code: 9912151A

Good Morning!
This portable generator (6250 start and 5000 watts continuous) gets used 1 or 2 times per year when we have a power outage that looks like it will be more than 6 hours for the utility company to restore our service. After each use I drain the fuel from the tank, run it dry, and remove the carb bowl to get out all gasoline.

The engine has always started first pull and run like an absolute champ. We run it maybe 3 hours, then disconnect the load, and shut it down for 4 hours. The idea is just to keep the refrigerator and freezer cold.

About 45 hours into our last power outage we came home to find the generator was not running. I disconnected the load, and gave it a pull. It started, but ran like crap. It smoothed out so I reconnected the load. It ran for a minute or two and stalled again.

I disconnected the fuel line, plenty of flow to the carb. Reconnected fuel line. Fuel from tank to carb does not seem to be an issue.

I disconnected the load and restarted. It ran crappy again. It seemed like the governor linkages were super stiff, almost binding up. I shut it down, removed the air filter box. Somewhere, It had binding. I used some WD-40 on all the pivot points. Now, a few days later (with utility power, yay) the governor linkages all move smoothly again.

Just now I started it up, and it hunted for maybe 10 seconds. It had never hunted before.
And wouldn't you know it, after 10 minutes it hunted a time or two, then stalled.
It did fire right back up.

It has now been running fine for 10 minutes just fine, with a small load.

Question 1: If the linkages had minorly oxidized, enough to make them stiff, what lube would you recommend?
Question 2: The hunting. I used Mechanic in a bottle. Is it time to run the car thru the ultrasonic cleaner?
Question 3: I am not thinking coil. It restarts and runs again just fine, even on a hot engine.

What are your thoughts on returning this engine back to being a reliable runner?

Thank you
Dale

[hanz63]

Mine I would start with servicing the carb to see what you have there. Linkage ends I'd clean gently as they barely have a corrosion preventive coating on to start and use your favorite spray lube as a preventive measure.

[Arkie]

About surging and hunting.
You need to do some more testing before flogging the carb.

Hold the carb linkage at idle and note if it idles smooth. Idling rough or not at all is a hint of carb needing attention.
Leave the gas cap loose and test under a load.
You did not give the model number of the Gen unit itself, but I suspect it probably has a top mounted gas tank being a 5k unit. It is quite common for a screen or filter at the petcock or inside the bottom of the gas tank to become clogged and the engine will eventually starve for fuel just like you describe, let it rest awhile and it will run again for awhile, then quit again. You can sub the tank with a gravity fed tank or send low pressure air back through the gas line with the gas cap removed to temporary clean the filter screen and re-test.
Sometimes you will have to remove the gas tank and do a thourgh cleaning if trash/rust/dirt is inside. The tank has a low sump and rust/trash naturally go to the low sump area and settle.
If the in tank area screen becomes bad from rust and cannot be cleaned, remove it and add a Red Briggs in-line filter downstream on the gas line.

Seriously doubt you have any issues with the governor control linkages, they will have resistance when the engine is running. (and spring tension when not running) Also keep a heads up that the governor linkages are critical to the Hz the gen. (engine speed)

You might post up the Model number of the Generator for more precise info. You can sometimes find a service manual on-line using the Gen model number. (and I might have the manual)

[38racing]

You mentioned mechanic in a both. I frequently use seafoam. I find that it can lean out the mixture. When I use in high dosage for cleaning I may even apply a bit of choke to prevent the surging.

[Dale_W]

Thank you for the replies.
Model: 09719-3
series: SVP5000
serial: 6824935
volts: 120/240
amps: 41.7/20.8
watts: 5000

It does have the plastic tank mounted over the engine/generator. Gravity fed, with red Briggs fuel filter.

The tank screen is tubular, and stick up maybe 1" into the tank. It is clean as a whistle.

I wanted to test how it idled, so I started it up, (yes fuel petcock open LOL), ran it for a minute or two, then pushed the linkage to slow it down.
It slowed down alright, then stalled.

Try as I might, it would not start. There is no spark. Yes, the switch is on

But get this, I disconnect the low oil sensor, and badda bing, I get spark.

Do those sensors ever go bad? There is plenty of oil in the engine.

Thanks again,

Dale

[RoyM]

They do go bad, contaminants in the oil will build up andcause problems. Unless you want to completely tear the unit down I would suggest leaving it alone and be diligent about checking the oil before each start.

[Arkie]

Yep, I thought about coming back and mentioning to disconnect the low oil sensor but appeared you evaporated.
I stumbled across this link that might have a parts list for your engine. (at bottom of post)
As Roy M suggests you can just leave the low oil sensor disconnected and check the oil before each gas refill and each time before the engine is started if the engine is NOT A OIL CONSUMER, oil burner with that being a 6 gal tank the engine will operate around 6 hours on a tank of gas. It's usually just a waste of time to remove and try cleaning the switch and not a good thing to have erratic operating stuff on a emergency gen.
I've replaced low oil level switches with good results on Briggs gen engines. (when price is within reason)
After You have the correct part number and PRICE you can search online for the most reasonable prices.
Do get the gaskets associated with the switch. (and I have a tube of Permatex Copper plus silcone gasket sealer handy.
Some small engines with a low oil shutdown will become more erratic if the engine is not setting level when running and some gen's are not level when a wheel kit has been added on.
Here is a link that might show parts. scroll down to OIL GARD AREA at about parts 980 area.
Could not get the link to work??
Anyway go to toolpartspro.com and search for your model, type code numbers or do a on-line search for parts and toolspartspro has a pdf download for your engine that shows a IPL of the oil Gard parts when you see this engine parts list..

[Dale_W]

Thank you Arkie for that website. Their diagrams are MUCH cleaner and easier to read on monitor screen than the site I typically use.
I found the part number for the oil gard kit, then searched online.
For me, I think I can remember to check the oil each time I gas up.
While old, the generator has very low hours, and it is not an oil burner.


Since I am repairing (or doing a work around really) on my own equipment on my own time, I find this type of research and learning to be fun.
Thank you Arkie, Roym, 38, and hanz for you help.

Dale

[Arkie]

Make sure the oil is not thinned out due to possible gasoline in sump.
When I see a float type low oil sensor acting erratic I make sure that the oil is not to thin and that the engine sump is not setting at to much of an angle.

I seen a engine that had erratic oil shutdown and oil was thinned out. The oil sensor was the float type and thinned oil upset the normal float buoyancy level. Changed oil to the correct type and all ok.

Not a good thing when a reliable EMERGENCY gen is needed and Murphy's law starts hitting the fan.

[Dale_W]

Murphy's law hit this engine really good 3 or 4 years ago, dead of winter.
Carburetor bowl gasket had dried out and leaked like crazy. Good thing we had a fireplace.

Good tip on the oil. I store this unit dry of gas, and change the oil often, but an oil change is super cheap insurance.

Dale