by Arkie » Mon Sep 06, 2021 10:49 am
Might be time to break out the electrical tester.
Noticed that Champion uses that same Model number for several different sizes of their KW gens, so if looking for rotor, stator and AVR specs the proper KW will need to be used. (one size won't fit all for ohms and AVR specs)
You might get lucky and just have a bad AVR. If it's a rotor or stator replacement price will be sadness.
Are you saying you unplugged the AVR?
If so it's time to try and determine if it's the AVR, the rotor, or the stator.
Just going from memory for couple of fast checks.
1. With the AVR disconnected check ohms brush to brush. Should not be very low, probably around 25 ohms to as much as 60. Look at the rotor windings carefully and the stator winding to see if you see any black or burned sections and sniff test.
2. To get an idea if the AVR is bad you can do a bypass test of the AVR.
With the AVR disconnected see if you can determine the polarity of the brushes plus and minus. (sometimes a + is stamped in the plastic by the brush holder)
If you can determine the brush polarity take a 12v battery with a 5 to 10 amp inline fuse and while the unit is running connect to the brushes with the proper polarity and see if the engine speed changes, If it changes drastically you have a bad rotor or stator.
If no change in engine speed check for a voltage output at the 120v receptacle for a low voltage maybe in vicinity of 25 to 50 volts AC. (some AC voltage)If no AC voltage a AVR will not fix the unit.
I think maybe them AVR's can be found for around $20 but may not be a bad AVR.
I cautioned before:
Do not leave the unit running in a fire hazard area and keep it away from flammable materials, especially when indicating a electrical issue. I've seen them rigs start electrical burning and spitting fire, sometimes after running for several minutes and continue to burn after the engine is killed. A fire ext handy is a good thing.