Damn! Can't get engine to run right now...

[dart451]

Hmm, I don't think so...I emptied the fuel tank and let it dry for a few days while I waited for a new carburetor. Ran the same with both carburetors. I could probably run a line from my gas can to the carburetor, see if anything changes.

However, if you think about it...it's not starving for fuel! It's getting too much fuel as indicated by the slight mist of fuel coming out of the carburetor...

[hanz63]

Ah, the old mouse stuck in the muffler trick... Check the flywheel key.

[38racing]

Hmm, I don't think so...I emptied the fuel tank and let it dry for a few days while I waited for a new carburetor. Ran the same with both carburetors. I could probably run a line from my gas can to the carburetor, see if anything changes.

However, if you think about it...it's not starving for fuel! It's getting too much fuel as indicated by the slight mist of fuel coming out of the carburetor...

I was thinking crap blocking needle from seating. Ive got that in a pushmower engine mounted in a tow behind rig.

[Skywatcher]

Hi Again Dart

You mentioning that moving the throttle shaft either way doesn't make a difference. I've had three engines that behaved that way, each one for a different reason. The first was a virtical shaft Tecumseh on a JD 57 riding mower, the flywheel key had sheared and the crankshaft slipped in the flywheel retarding the timing to the point where the engine would not rev up.

The second was a B&S engine on a Coleman portable generator. The spark arrester in the muffler was completely plugged. If an engine can't breath out, it can't breath in and will spit back through the carburetor. Check for a loose baffle in the muffler restriction exhaust flow.

The third was a Kohler Command series engine on a Husqvarna lawn tractor. The intake lobe on the camshaft had worn down to the point where the intake valve was barely opening, so the engine was not getting a full charge of fuel/air mixture on the intake stroke.

Remove the muffler and try the engine again. If no change, remove the valve cover, rotate the engine by hand and see how far down the rockers are actually pushing the valves. If those both look good, remove the flywheel and check the condition of the flywheel key.

If the flywheel slips on the crankshaft as in the case of a lawnmower hitting a solid object, the engine will kick back when you're trying to start it. If the crankshaft slips within the flywheel due to flywheel nut not being properly torqued, the engine will be nice and easy to start, hut won't attain full RPM and the muffler will get unusually hot. Hope this gives you some ideas,

Sky

[wristpin]

Something had to have happened when I turned the motor off the last time.

Kicked back and upset something ?

[dart451]

Ok, I finally took off the flywheel and WALLA! The keyway is sheared! It was approximately off 1/2"...how the damn thing ran like this I'll never know! I never could get a Briggs run if the keyway was even slightly dented. Anyway, Thank you everyone for your help! Reason I didn't check the keyway right away is...I didn't think the engine would run if it was sheared...I have learned...this is not the case! Thanks again guys!!

[KE4AVB]

Hmmm. I wonder caused it to shear as Log splitter usually just drives a hydraulic pump.

[dart451]

Well, probably because I didn't torque the flywheel properly! I had to remove the flywheel to install the new fuel line which fits behind it. And my bad..I didn't torque it! The torque is supposed to be 52.5 ft. lbs...