Stihl 017

[bgsengine]

Would you suggest some loctite on the screw?

Yes, either that , or if you can fit a punch through the throat and venturi, and a flat punch on the other side of the screw, lightly stake the end of the screw (peen it- a slight mushroom will prevent it from coming out and destroying the saw when it does) Loctite is far easier and safer if you have not had any experience/practice at peening throttle screws (it is wayyy to easy to put a bend in the throttle shaft that makes things go wonky!) But, don't remove the screw to apply loctite if you can let the thing set untouched for a few days (let a tiny drop of loctite harden on the very tip of the screw - once cured, it becomes sort of a plastic bonded to metal, which again keeps screw from coming out) However, if you need/want to have the thing in service right away (most cases) then yeah, pop screw out (not needed to remove it completely if you can get a drop of loctite on threads before removing it.)

Often, OEM factory screws especially in potential high vibration applications, will have the ends of the screws staked or peened at the factory- (which if not aware of it, can often cause an unwary tech with a screwdriver to have to replace a throttle shaft too! - Peened screws will ruin soft brass threads in throttle shafts) - on those, the tip of the screw has to be filed or ground away flush to the throttle shaft before trying to remove it, and plan on replacing the screw for re-assembly.

[Gerry]

Which Loctite are we talking about, in this application I would guess red over blue?
Personally I safe away from the Red every since the fiasco with the Cat pump. Since I use a surface prep/accelerator spray the blue works fine for most my carburetor repairs.

[Arkie]

Which Loctite are we talking about, in this application I would guess red over blue?
Personally I safe away from the Red every since the fiasco with the Cat pump. Since I use a surface prep/accelerator spray the blue works fine for most my carburetor repairs.

I do not use the RED either if I think I might ever need to go back. It's considered a permanent loc.

I have defeated the red by using heat and eventually get a removal but.
If I could not cautiously peen the butterfly screw (as bsengine mentioned) I would probably go with the red, knowing the chainsaw engine is a high rpm, high vib engine and if it comes out and goes inside the engine, the engine is most likely destroyed.

I had a throttle butterfly screw come off and go inside a Briggs twin engine engine sometime back. Someone else had been flogging the carb previously. When it came off the throttle butterfly locked the carb throttle wide open the screw went inside and sadness at wide open throttle.

[lefty]

Given the stakes and the fact that the carb is so cheap, I'm thinking red would be the best bet.

[SUKI]

Which Loctite are we talking about, in this application I would guess red over blue?
Personally I safe away from the Red every since the fiasco with the Cat pump. Since I use a surface prep/accelerator spray the blue works fine for most my carburetor repairs.

I do not use the either if I think I might ever need to go back. It's considered a permanent loc.

I have defeated the red by using heat and eventually get a removal but.
If I could not cautiously peen the butterfly screw (as bsengine mentioned) I would probably go with the red, knowing the chainsaw engine is a high rpm, high vib engine and if it comes out and goes inside the engine, the engine is most likely destroyed.

I had a throttle butterfly screw come off and go inside a Briggs twin engine engine sometime back. Someone else had been flogging the carb previously. When it came off the throttle butterfly locked the carb throttle wide open the screw went inside and sadness at wide open throttle.

Here I done had two Kawasaki v twins and one Kohler Courage that inhales carburetor screws. The damage was the Kohler as they were steel screws. Replaced with brass sems ones and lock tight.

[lefty]

I wrapped this one up and everything is running great. I tweaked the idle adjustment while it was apart and fine-tuned it with the low-speed screw, which is accessible with the saw is assembled. I lucked out in the respect that I was able to fine-tune the idle with the right amount of thickening on the low-speed screw. I didn't want it too lean on idle. Just happened out that way on the first try. I was dreading this task of adjusting idle as the carb has to come off to adjust the idle, unfortunately.

Thanks to all that helped.

[Arkie]

No easy access to the adjustments carb screws on a Stihl chainsaw SUCKS BIG AIR.

Whoever designed that needs an attitude adjustment with a big swift upwards shoe toe as also a wake up call.