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To kit or to carb. That is the question.

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To kit or to carb. That is the question.

Postby 38racing » Tue Nov 23, 2021 8:56 pm

I'm working on a friend's troybilt snowblower. He thought it was vandalized as part of handle cover was broke and chute control was broke and dipstick was missing. The chute breakage was simply the new crap design. The plastic gear box assembly for the chute control has a thin plastic flange that anchors the conduit end of the up/down chute control cable. To make matters worse the flange had an elongated hole in it for the other cable to pass. No wonder it broke. The assembly is about $300 cdn. I think I have it fixed by machine screwing a piece of angle iron to the gear box housing . when I tried the engine it only ran on full choke. I've put the carb through the USC. I didn't see any leakage and had it running fine but when i shut it down I saw gas gas dripping from carb. I pulled it again and did the valve compound treatment to the seat and the 2000 grit to needle. Just put it back together. If I pressure test inlet what psi do I expect before the needle lifts? If it still floods I have the option of the oem kit for $38 cdn or a complete carb from amazon.ca for $23. The Amazon carb picture has huayi stamped on it as does the current carb. Wonder if that's significant. I think this unit is too new for someone to have already put an aftermarket carb on it. Thoughts on which to choose?
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Re: To kit or to carb. That is the question.

Postby creia » Tue Nov 23, 2021 9:51 pm

What is the make and (Full) model #'s of the engine?
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Re: To kit or to carb. That is the question.

Postby KE4AVB » Wed Nov 24, 2021 3:39 am

Most float valves here holds at least 5 psi but I do test them up to 10 psi. Some pop off before the 10 psi but all should hold at least 5 psi. Also check the needle for ringing of the rubber tip if present and the inverted float level. Note spring loaded float valves do set against the carburetor body when inverted on most models that I repair.

On the leak down test I shoot for them to hold at least 30 minutes. Other techs may have a different set of test specs.
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Re: To kit or to carb. That is the question.

Postby 38racing » Wed Nov 24, 2021 10:48 am

This is the engine it's on.
277cc ZS 478-SUA Horizontal Shaft OHV Snow Engine
Carb was inside last night and hopefully I'll find my psi tester is outside. So last night I vacuumed tested it. Put up to 15 in hg. This morning it seems to have stopped at 4.5. I know this test can be off because it's actually pulling needle shut more that float alone might do. I'll do the psi later today.
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Re: To kit or to carb. That is the question.

Postby KE4AVB » Wed Nov 24, 2021 11:27 am

Although MTD IPL doesn't list the PNs for the needle valve or the spring I think 793P00165 (needle valve) and 732P05251 (spring) are the correct PNs.
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Re: To kit or to carb. That is the question.

Postby 38racing » Wed Nov 24, 2021 1:12 pm

KE4AVB wrote:Although MTD IPL doesn't list the PNs for the needle valve or the spring I think 793P00165 (needle valve) and 732P05251 (spring) are the correct PNs.

Interesting . as you say they only show as available in the kit. Mtd canada shows them available for 6$.
I misquoted above. The kit is shown on mtd USA as $38 and on back order. Mtd canada shows as 29$ cdn and in stock.
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Re: To kit or to carb. That is the question.

Postby RoyM » Wed Nov 24, 2021 1:59 pm

I don't envy you guys in the service business, the Chinese products are a nightmare. If the carb is giving problems replace it. That is still no guarantee it will go away but imho attempting to repair it is a waste of time.
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Re: To kit or to carb. That is the question.

Postby KE4AVB » Wed Nov 24, 2021 2:43 pm

38racing wrote:
KE4AVB wrote:Although MTD IPL doesn't list the PNs for the needle valve or the spring I think 793P00165 (needle valve) and 732P05251 (spring) are the correct PNs.

Interesting . as you say they only show as available in the kit. Mtd canada shows them available for 6$.
I misquoted above. The kit is shown on mtd USA as $38 and on back order. Mtd canada shows as 29$ cdn and in stock.

See that difference in distributors and other vendors we have. It seems that US distributor are more interested in profit and like to hide things. I know the parts are available separately but just got find a source that will provide the part numbers then I can usually order by the part number.

It is like the MTD 725-06102C RMC module use here in the US every one of MTD parts look up sources don't the ignition separately even though I know it is a Delta 6900-47 switch. I did finally found a source for the switch. This was after I already installed a Husqvarna switch in the RMC module. It however had the position logo molded in place and one was the wrong one. The Delta switch MTD uses doesn't have any logos. I just couldn't see spending $55 plus shc to replace a $10 switch which I already had on hand. Actually the Husqvarna switch is $6 but the plain Jane switch from Oregon is $10.91. Too bad the switch housing is what was wrong with the customer's switch or I could have just swap the housings out and the new switch to match the customer's original switch.
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Re: To kit or to carb. That is the question.

Postby 38racing » Wed Nov 24, 2021 2:57 pm

I just placed carb back on mounting bolts and attached fuel line and unclamped the line. Right away I had gas coming out the primer hose.
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Re: To kit or to carb. That is the question.

Postby 38racing » Mon Nov 29, 2021 12:15 pm

So I got a carb from Amazon. Both say huayi 178sa but different as per picture.
https://web.ncf.ca/da229/smallengine/IM ... 120417.jpg
Gasket that came with it doesn't really match the carb .
That said I put it on using old gasket and it runs fine. Surges a tiny bit at first start but then runs fine. Need snow for final test but I'm not in a hurry for that.
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