1989 JD STX38

[Skywatcher]

Greetings All

Working on a 1989 JD STX38 that had a few issues. The two main ones that were concerning me for the moment was the brake didn't work and the left rear tire wouldn't hold air. I know that an innertube can be installed without removing the rim from the axle, but the right rear rim has to be removed to access the brake. Long story short, I removed the mower deck, disconnected and dropped the transaxle. Removed the tires off the rims and split the transaxle so the rear axle halves could be lifted out. Experience has taught me that if you have the rim and axle out, it's easier to push the axle through the rim from the inside.

Use a ¾" drive 1½" socket to support the rim so the axle can pass through the socket. Set the drive side of the socket against the center tube of the rim and align one of the corners with the keyway. Set this assembly in the hydraulic press with rim down and socket against a press plate and press on the sun gear end of the axle. Darn near stalled out my 12 ton press, but eventually let go with quite a bang. Was then able to drive the axle out far enough that the rusted area could be cleaned up with an abrasive pad on a die grinder. Once cleaned up, the axle slid back out of the rim. Figured I might as well get the left rim off while I was at it.

Transaxle is now back together and of course one of the bolts holding the brake assembly broke off, so had to be drilled out and the hole Heli-Coiled. Should be able to reassemble the brake and get the transaxle back into the tractor tomorrow. I'll see about giving an update later in the week. All the best,

Sky

[RoyM]

I hated those jobs! Far too much work just to fix the brake. Snowblowers and tillers are bad too, they don't see regular use so are ignored.

[38racing]

I tubed a rider rear tire this past summer. I has the rear lifted with a hoist. Quite the feat to get the tire bead back over rim. I own a 10 inch c clamp now which I didn't then (thanks to princessauto). Also I had my wife help me but she insists that my cursing is not actually helping. I've got an 89 western international with 23 inch with a badly leaking tire. I actually had the tranny off because the mounting flanges are gone and I've got a system of angle iron mounts. Fellow who gave it to me pushed manure in his dairy barn

[KE4AVB]

Hmmm. I have done several on the equipment repairs over the years. THe biggest pain has those 6 inch and under rims. I also had to do my personal MTD mower rear 8" rim tire because the rims are rust to the axles.

Yes it will take disassembly of the transaxle so to press out the shafts. Unlike Sky I would need press them inward due to the double D axle end. Unless I have transaxle problems I would rather just change tire or install a tube in them.

I have more problems with new tires being deformed that will not seat easily. Though I have found putting an unsed tube in the new tire, airing them up, and letting the tire sit in the hot sun then allow them to cool overnight before trying to mount helps.

[BLES]

Wow! I'm impressed with your ingenuity and patience fixing these old machines, Sky. I can't imagine how you get paid enough, or are these personal projects? That much time spent on an STX at a fair hourly rate.... most people I know won't spend that much. Good for you!

I hate the flat repairs like everyone else. Usually, I resorted to tubes, but often they didn't last if the tires weren't in great shape. My solution now is Liquitube. Been using it for a few years now. Simple, and it works. Only downside is if you have to remove the tire again. Only ever done that once when I ran over a blade and gashed it wide open. Apart from that, you'll never remove the tire again anyway. Best thing I've come across in years.

BLES

PS: Haven't been here in a while. Been struggling with health and associated issues. The big "C" respects no one. Glad to see many of the familiar names here still. Thanks for your posts.

[Skywatcher]

Hi BLES

Thanks for your post and bringing this back to my attention. Yes, this is my personal machine, it has a triangular hitch plate with reinforcing strut and 2" ball for moving utility trailer and log splitter around. The Heli-Coil repair worked, so the brake works too. I'll need to pull and split the engine as the silicone sealant no longer seals, that's a job for the quiet times. I have used the John Deere tire sealant with good success on tires that aren't too cracked or split, installed it in my LT133 when it was new in 1998 and one front tire finally gave out last summer, the rear tires still hold air. That's another machine that needs to come into the shop for a major; Split fuel tank, Leaking crankcase and growling transmission.

When I still pulled wrench at the JD dealer, I would take an extra 4 minutes during set-up and PDI to pull the rear wheels, grease the axles and slide the wheels back on while setting up new lawn tractors. It made a difference when those tractors came back in 10 to 15 years later, the rear wheels would come off without a fight. The service manager said that I was taking potential future work away from the shop, I figured I was freeing up future mechanic's time so the mechanic could work on higher revenue producing jobs like farm tractors and combine harvesters.

Just had my 6 month booster shot this morning, will see how I feel tomorrow. I figure if I can save my fellow taxpayers $70,000.00 or more by staying out of ICU, the $100.00 it costs the system to get me fully vaccinated is more than worth it. Not to mention the cost to my personal well being. Take care and stay well,

Sky

[KE4AVB]

Just hope you don't the chills like I did for 6 hours a day later. I had both the electric blanket and heat pad going along several cups of hot coffee during that time. Like you I don't want the real thing.

So far first shot only minor sore arm, Second shot very sore arm and light chills, and now third shot heavy chills. My neighbor that had Covid a year ago is still having problem related to it. He has lung damage which getting colds now worst.