Yardman

[Gerry]

Got a Yardman 13C2775S000, owner said tranny would stick in gear after a lot if beating and banging it would free up. Now it wont pull or go backwards. Cant find a good IPL. Looks like limited parts are available, guess MTD wants to sell transaxles. Anyone have access to a repair manual or good parts break down for this item.

As always thanks in advance.

[KE4AVB]

It is same single speed differential as is in the Yardman 13AO785T055 that I have here.

https://www.partstree.com/models/13ao785t055-yard-man-lawn-tractor-2013/transmission-8/

[Skywatcher]

Hi Gerry

On those tractors with a single speed transmission and twin belt variable speed drive to the transmission, a shifting problem is more likely to be in the belt system. If there's any torque to the transmission input shaft due to belts not fully releasing, shifting the FNR lever is tough. Did you get any indication as to whether the tranny would shift more easily with the engine off? sometimes the variable pulley pivot bracket can seize up if the grease has dried up or been washed off. All the best,

Sky

[KE4AVB]

Sorry for the late reply as I was tied up repairing a Toro ZTR deck that rust out problems. About 6 hours of cutting and patching. Dead tired afterwards.

Yes it is more common to have installed the wrong belts but I was trying to answer that question. As for the differential itself most shifting problems is related to the driveshaft assembly wear and shafting fork problems which wear a groove where the steel ball rides. Then of course there the bronze bushing that wear. Use 00 Grease as sub for the grease used.

If the steel detent ball needs replacing I use the Husqvarna PN 532100482 1/4 balls. It is a pack of 12 so you have a several extra ones for later use but what MTD wants for one ball they are reason priced.

This manual which have most of info on rebuilding the transaxle Just ignore the auto drive info unless you have the auto drive belt system.

https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/MTD-Service-Repair-Manuals/Yard-Machine-700-series-riders-repair-manual..pdf

[Arkie]

I've re-built them FNR MTD craftsman types.
I usually have about 3 laying around for parts, take 3 and make one.
You can get the axle bushing and few other parts, but have to be careful or can get more money into one for parts instead of just buying a good used one.
If it's shifts ok with the engine killed do as the guys says.

If you don't like working on transaxles and don't have patience, look around and just replace with a good used unit.

If it was whining at fast forward before it quit working it's most likely worn out inside. It was whinbing for lube because the old clay grease was hard and not lubing. (squeaky wheel get the grease) No way to add grease without opening up the unit and packing. I have added about 1/2 cup of 90-140 diff oil to them (with good results) by carefully drilling a hole in the center casting.

I refill (repack) them with EP2 grease and little bit of 90-140 oil. Re-pack the outer axle bushing area really good. The axles do not have seals for oil so just use little bit of the oil.
The existing grease is a CLAY and seems to be specially selected so as to allow the unit to wear out. (consumable) It will be hard packed and dry. It's also selected so as it won't leak out.

[KE4AVB]

Yes the drive shaft assy is about $70.The last one I brought back in 2020 was only $55; what a jump in price. Axle seals are about 3.50 ea. Drive shaft seal is about 5.25. One of the drive shaft bushing is 2.25 and the other one is 2.25. So it really not that bad to repair one. Although sometimes the bushing will need shimming. I use an aluminum beer can to make the shims.

[Gerry]

Thanks for all the help!!!! I looke at the VS pulley its in good shape and the sheave slides good. Belts and in good shape. I put the transaxle on the bench and run it thru the gears and the axles would not turn. I went into it and what I found was the only grease on the bevel gears was originally put there. The big gears were running in a channel with just a film of lube. All the grease was setting in the housing and about the feel of room temp butter. What grease was there was just packed.

I cleaned the muck off, inspected the gears shows very little if any wear. Reassembled and did a dry run test it turned the axles in forward and reverse. What do yall think if I use about 20 OZ Bentonite grease cut with a couple OZ of Oregon 00 Grease?

Oh did see no damage on the yoke or where the ball traveled.

Thanks again.

[KE4AVB]

How did faces of the bevel gears where the clutch dogs engage looked. This where the unit slips out of gear under load. It might be three point engagement or multiple point version depending on when the unit was made. Currently they use three point version as the multiple point version wore heavily. Also check the shaft where the clutch dog rides for wear. Any noticeable wear will cause hanging when shifting.

Also note the mower must be using MTD belts and not after market ones as am belts causes a lot problems in the CVT system.

[Arkie]

When you first put it on the bench and the axles would not turn in Forward or Reverse is not a good thing and just cleaning and adding grease is MOST likely not going to cure the issue.

Just some tips from experience on those type transaxles.
I've seen that no travel F or R , take it apart and not readily apparent the cause.
What I usually find when one starts turning ok during inspection. If you look very carefully at the big ring gear, some teeth on one side are blunted off and not as tall (long) as the others and the pinion and ring gear are not quite getting a bite. Will work on on the bench but fail under load on the machine. (they get just enough bite on the bench to operate ok without a pull load)



It will do it again when you put it under load on the machine.

About your question about the Bentonite grease and EP2 grease is ok. (for this low speed application)
I do not prefer or use the Clay Bentonite grease. The EP2 by itself will actually give a longer service life in this application. This type of transaxle IS NOT designed for long term lots of hours application. They are designed to wear out.
I just use lots of EP2 at the outer axles housing and at the ring pinion area. The outer axles bushing usually wear out first due to dirt/dust. The inner and outer bushing on the axles are the same and I usually reverse them (install the inner bushing on the outer end of the axle) if the outer bushing is only worn just little bit.

I've bought complete mowers just for the transaxles and parts, cheaper than doing repairs using new parts and if I were you I would be looking for another transaxle.

A good hint that a used transaxle is worn out is if the outer axles have any up/down slack.
A hint of worn outer bushing and lots of hours use is the wheels are angled when viewed from the rear of machine. (tilted out at the bottom)
This indicates that the outer bushing and sometimes even the axle shaft itself is worn due to lots of hours and it's only good for scrap or maybe a few parts.

If doing such (this type transaxle repairs) for a customer, it's time for them to shop for another machine or do the MTD repair experience for themselves.

[38racing]

my recollection is the manual has a warning on assembly that you need to grease the the shaft that gears ride on or they'll weld together.