J I Case Mini-Sneaker

[Dale_W]

Hi All

First - thank you for posting the link to the Kohler service manuals for this K582 engine. That has been a ton of help!

This machine is a vibratory plow, used to pull cable or sprinkler system pipe underground. Neat little machine.
But boy oh boy, has Bubba and his twin sister Bertha ever been after this poor machine's wiring!
We did get a good price, but it was sort of a basket-case.

I have found IPLs for this machine, and that helped for the few parts I needed.
And the engine service manual was invaluable for the wiring of the voltage regulator and other engine related wiring.

Here is my question. either Bubba or Bertha cut the plug off for the hydraulic system's radiator fan and sort of jammed wires into the plug on the fan.
The engine is in front, then at the rear of the engine compartment is the fan, and then the radiator is at the exit of the back end of the engine compartment.
What direction should the fan run? Should it draw air out of the engine compartment, push it past the radiator and exit the the compartment?
Or should it draw in outside air past the radiator, thru the fan, and into the engine compartment?

The very outside of the radiator is very clean. The inside is not quite as clean, leading me to think that maybe it was drawing air out of the engine compartment and pushing air out. The blades are too clean to see a dirty leading edge of the fan blade.

If this was a car, I'd say it should draw air from the outside, past the radiator, and into the engine compartment.

Do you guys have any thoughts?

Thanks,

Dale

[bgsengine]

If air would flow through to engine compartment and it passes through radiator before the fan, then you're pulling hot air into the engine compartment, which is also where the engine gets it's cooling air from... Think about it..



You want cool air to flow to engine, and cool air to flow to radiator, so if fan is between engine and radiator, then one would assume the fan should blow air out through radiator away from engine.. Provided, that is, there's sufficient outside air flow to provide enough volume of fresh air to cool both engine and hydraulic cooler..

[Dale_W]

Yes, the fan is between the engine and radiator. Plenty of air can get in thru the sides of the engine compartment.

I like your explanation. I shall have the fan pull air in from the sides of the engine compartment, and blow it out thru the hydraulic system radiator.

Thank you much Sir.

PS: I will likely have another question or two on the wiring of this sneaker. Should I put them in this thread? or start a new one?

[Skywatcher]

Hi Dale

Did a Google search on the machine in question, the engine is mounted laterally or transversely, so it pulls cooling air in from the left side and blows it out to the right side of the unit. To me, it would make the most sense to have the fan drawing cool air in from in front of the machine. The small amount of warm air from the oil cooler blowing onto the side of the engine is not going to be enough to effect the cooling of the engine. Hope this makes sense,

Sky

[KE4AVB]

It kinda depends on how much heat is generated by the hydraulics. A couple units mowers I serviced last they generated a lot of heat. One is a 60 cut Hustler Super Z which the radiator cooler is mounted on the rear tail wing and is blowing out from the mower. You warm up your dinner on it.

Then there was the Wright self propelled commercial walk behind. It came in running on one cylinder. They design this one to have the hydraulics radiator directly over the engines cooling fan. The radiator cooler was nearly clogged with dirt. Because of this the hydraulic were over heating and with the partially blocked air flow to engine cause problems. The engine shroud had melted, sagging onto the engine's cooling fan. Both were destroyed. On top that the engine lost #2 cylinder head and push rods. Personally I would have rather seen the radiator cooler mounted otherwise with a separate fan. This cause the customer to spend about $500 in parts alone restoring the equipment to running condition. He was lucky that there weren't more problems.

Now with the sneaker being made by Case they would design the unit to be very robust as it is a commercial unit. As the wiring you to get with your local Case dealer and see if they can provide with a wiring schematic.

Now of course the customer with the Wright mower is going to be spending close a $1200 on 8 Stihl trimmers and 1 chainsaw this Spring. I just got 6 repaired and awaiting a couple carbs and a edger blade. Then I figure the bill up on all nine units. I going to be drawing down his bank account and filling up mine. I just can't help it that his crew is abusing the equipment but the bill will get his attention.

I am so irritated at Stihl for buying a large chunk of Zama. I can't get rebuild parts for the carbs that only fit their equipment and now Stihl is even changing the carb model numbers to us from researching for spare parts. And now Stihl is not even providing maintenance kits due to the war in the Ukraine.

It was bad enough that part costs were going thru the roof. But now with fuel cost shipping costs will be next. I trying not to raise my rates but may have to cover these extra costs.

[Dale_W]

Sky and Kevin,
I need to figure out how to post pictures.
You are right, this is a beefy machine. .
I believe this machine was made in Racine, WI. Although Case may have other plants too. Racine is 22 miles from me. Finding a dealer has been interestingly difficult. It's like I need to join a club or something.

I need to find a 3-banded pump drive belt. Part # H245464. Somebody has to stock this or a replacement belt. There has to be thousands of mini and maxi sneakers out there.

I'll post some pictures in a few days.

Thanks
Dale

[Dale_W]

Update, I got an imgur account and will try to post pictures.




So these are not the worlds greatest pictures. I used 'direct link', 'medium thumbnail'. I could not seem to get 'image links' to work.
I posted these to show that this is a longitudinally mounted engine, but the the flywheel side faces rearward. Note how there is a ujoint to a hydraulic pump, and a belt to another hydraulic pump.
I have not yet made the effort to see what pump powers what cylinders. attachments, or drive wheels. There is a cylinder to raise/lower the rear plow blade, and a cylinder to actuate the articulated steering. There is what I will call a hydraulically powered shaker box mounted to the rear implement (arm?). It shakes the blade left and right like crazy. Then of course there is the all wheel drive. There is a PTO up front to mount horizontal boring bits to under a driveway or what ever. Not sure how to do that yet.

I know zilch about hydraulics and how they work. And while everything seems to work on this little plow, when you have the shaker box running and the blade underground with water line attached and you are pulling it, the joystick for forward/backward/left/right really takes a lot of effort to push forward and engage. Last fall we borrowed the same model machine, and the joystick was effortless to use. So something is amiss there. We did check the level of the hydraulic fluid. Oh, and if you turn off the shaker box, then the joystic for forward/backward/left/right seems to work just fine. Anybody have any ideas what could be going on there? Remember, bubba and bertha had this machine before us, so who knows what is worn, or out of adjustment.

Thanks,
Dale


eh, more playing with imgur. here is 'original size', and HTML
[img]<a%20href="https://imgur.com/sDDnxrB"><img%20src="https://i.imgur.com/sDDnxrB.jpg"%20title="source:%20imgur.com"%20/></a>[/img]

here is original size, and bbcode:
[img][img]https://i.imgur.com/sDDnxrB.jpg[/img][/img]

original and linked bbcode:
[img][img]http://i.imgur.com/sDDnxrB.jpg[/img][/img]

[img][Imgur](https://i.imgur.com/sDDnxrBb.jpg)[/img]

[KE4AVB]

Just resize the images to meet our forum requirements of 640 DPI x 600 DPI max and then direct link will work fine.