Roadrunner123 wrote:Ok so I have the engine on the bench. First thing I noticed and this is new, that there was oil on the top of the piston. Not sure why and it wasn't there the first time I removed the head. Just thought I would mention that. At TDC the valve clearance was .010-.011 on the exhaust and .080-.090 or the intake. Manual say .040-.010 for both is the range.
I was told by a friend that also works on small engines I should at least lap the valves why I have everything open.
You have some typo's here.
Make sure you do not use feeler gauges the same size as your typos.
I did not look at the specs but I suspect you mean the specs are .004-.010 for both.
If the ex is .010-.011 this is close enoughAND
.008-.009 is close enough on the intakeif the spec range is .004-.010
On a L-head I would be concerned if I seen anything below .005 because clearance will get closer when hot and the valve are eventually wearing deeper into the seat.
Appears to me you are ok.
If you play around with L-Head small engines very much you need to think about eventually getting yourself a Briggs & Stratton 19063 Valve Spring Compressor @ about $30.
I've used the same one for several years and it sure helps keep you from chewing on your tongue and bleeding when trying to reinstall them spring keepers.
You should re-check your lash to see if you have typos' here.
If the ex is .080 someone has already ground too much off the intake valve stem.You might think about removing the springs and lapping and checking the seats and valve lap pattern on both valves while you have the head off. The valves spring are easier to get off than to re-install.