Roadrunner123 wrote:Ok so I removed the intake valve and included a link to show the carbon on the underside.
I see no rubber wiper that you're talking about.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/FaiWfnB74nTufCyk8
There was on evidence of anything rubber being in there.
valve face does show some sings of carbon impacted to it , lapping it away would be a good idea.
- Those engines did not use valve stem seals (rare in an L-Head horizontal shaft since oil is on the downhill side already)
- Your intake valve does show signs of wear (abrasive passing through intake) which might explain a bit of oil on top of piston (most engines will always have a bit of oil there) and also your "oil" could just be gas-soaked carbon deposits. while head is off, check the bore for any serious scratching in line with the piston (ANYTHING YOU CAN CATCH A FINGERNAIL IN IS GONNA BE A PROBLEM DOWN THE ROAD) . Meantime you also need to check your exhaust valve face for burning and pitting. But overall your main focus is gonna be setting the clearance (if you do it the fast way and only check clearance by applying finger pressure on valve instead of putting the spring and keeper back on, then go for a gap more to the "bigger" side of the spec (if spec is .005- .007 for example, shoot to get a gap around .007 - .008) , and your valve faces (honestly that intake valve, I'd probably reface it and recut the seats, set clearance and lap it in, but unless you have a $800.00 - plus tool budget for the valve refacer and seat cutter sets, you can often get by with just lapping them in, instead, unless burned or pitted or dished badly, in which case replacement is in order)
There's 3 types of keepers common to the L-Head - The Keyhole style is most common (think of an old skeleton key keyhole shape, that's kinda what they look like) , then there's the collar and pin (bit more difficult to remove without a compressor) and then the split collar retainers (3 piece) which is what you evidently saw in that video, and is the one most difficult to R&R without a compressor (and grease often used to help stick the halves in place so collar can be released over them) That style is most commonly found on exhaust valves that also have a valve rotator keeper collar... Some engines had steel upper spring guides that look like keepers (but are not) and some did not. If so equipped, they are there to help keep the spring square to the valve stem (if the spring does not sit square it can increase side loading on valve stem, leading to slightly more wear on stem and guides)
