Roadrunner123 wrote:bgsengine wrote:Roadrunner123 wrote:If I put rings in it would have to hone the cylinder first. I didn't take this to sell but thought it would be fun to use but I can't afford the space in my shed if it doesn't run.
I'd have assumed the bore would have been checked at least cursorily when the head was off- If so, and it seemed OK, then you can get away with just putting rings in it - Bore does not necessarily need to be honed, especially if you can see even faint traces of the original cross hatch pattern..
Thanks bgsengine for the reply. Lets start with the cylinder. Since I only do this for a hobby on my own equipment, I've never done any honing. I've included a link to a picture of my cylinder to gets your thoughts. What are the lines going criss cross on the walls?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/5rCSdt4EFqMXmajz6 Thanks for any input on this.
Hard to tell from your picture, whether those are natural (in raised relief due to your camera/photo quality/angle of the shot) but yes the *PATTERN* those criss cross lines are what I referred to as the cross-hatch pattern , however they are usually much more close together (freshly done at the factory they may resemble a mesh garlic bag pattern)
Your bore does look pretty clean otherwise, not anywhere near as bad as might be expected for a "condemnation" of suitability. Also, if the engine really is not using much oil (if it gets dirty fast that means there's something INSIDE the engine that is contaminating it) and only puffs of smoke now and then, I would not be expecting it to be a ring problem in the first place, but if you could get a clear picture like that of your valves and valve seats (roll piston to top center, pull both valves and set each one on its head next to the seat, for example) as they are (don't clean them off if they have any dirt or carbon) we might have a better idea of condition of your engine
Finally, I can see what almost appears to be a bit of piston ring between piston and cylinder wall, and if that is the case, your bore may just be quite worn, and like Arkie said, could be someone before you got "into" it and tried to fix it up , "just good enough to sell it" , thus passing off the inherent problems with the engine off to someone else (possibly the one that ended up getting rid of it and putting it in your hands?)
But that aside - IF you can see the top piston ring in the gap between bore wall and piston, see if you can see the compression ring end gap, if it is big enough you think you could measure it with a ruler - as in bigger than breaker point gap size, then either rings are worn out, or bore is worn out.... What you could do is if you get a ring set first of all (still relatively cheap, I believe) you can take rings out of the box and fit them in square (using piston to square them up) and measure end gaps with a feeler gauge... if they're still in spec, you can just re-ring, because as I mentioned that bore looks clean enough that *IF, AND ONLY IF* the engine does need new rings, they can go in and seat quite well in a bore like that, assuming the cross hatch marks we see in the photo were not deep scratches caused by someone that didn't know what they were doing with a boring bar....
How poor are they who have not patience. What wound did ever heal, but by degrees? - Iago (Othello Act II, Scene 3)