Briggs 5HP crankshaft timing gear

[creia]

1972 Briggs Model 130202 horizontal shaft
I need to remove and replace the crankshaft timing gear (a couple of broken off teeth). How is this removed? Is it a (factory) press fit unto the crank? (same questions for reinstallation) I tried moving it with my hand but it seems to be on there pretty tight.
Thank you for the help.
Michael

[RoyM]

That is not a serviceable part. I suppose you might try heating it then try heating and shrinking a salvaged gear but salvage cranks are so plentiful it hardly seems worth the effort.

[bgsengine]

And take a close look, some gears are actually machined out of the crankshaft billet, not even removable.

[creia]

Thank you both very much for the information. You have saved me some time and frustration trying to remove the gear.

To RoyM- I WISH what you are saying about "salvaged cranks are so plentiful" was true in my case! It is not- at least not on eBay. Not a single listing for a new or used one. I need Briggs part # 260938 (superseded to # 492088). This has the extended "nose" on the mag side end for a recoil starter clutch, and has a straight (not tapered or threaded) shaft on the PTO end.In addition, the PTO end is 2.25" long and has a slotted keyway the entire length.

Maybe someone on this forum has a good used one they would be willing to sell?
Regards,
Michael

[bgsengine]

.In addition, the PTO end is 2.25" long and has a slotted keyway the entire length.
l

Actually, you don't need to worry so much about length, long as they are at least as long, and have the keyway you mention - Longer shafts can be cut down to size (ordinary hacksaw will do the job, wrap a strip of printer paper around the shaft keeping straight edge squared up for the full wrap, serves as an excellent guide to cut square. - If really long and needing drilled & tapped , make sure the drilled depth (and tapped threads) go in far enough first before cutting, otherwise, you should drill deeper using original hole as your drill guide, then make sure you have 3-4 threads already tapped in past the point you need to cut, so you can finish tapping threads after cut off.

Granted, those starter clutch crankshafts can be very hard to find these days, but if you can find something within the specs you need, the PTO end can usually be machined relatively easily (with patience and care) with ordinary shop tools - Can even machine in a keyway if need be, if you have a good dremel and quality cuttter bits (and a steady enough hand to cut within the lines)

But yeah, on the off chance you CAN locate a crankshaft with the gear you need (and assuming it won't work as a replacement at all), I'd start by making sure you can remove THAT gear first. Because, as noted, you may have to heat the gear to remove, and even then it may not come loose as heating it will also heat the crank.... installing it would be done by putting crank in freezer for a few hours, then heat the gear in hot oil (20-30 minutes at a steady temperature WELL BELOW the oil's flash point) pull crank out of freezer, drop gear on and (working as fast as possible) get it aligned and snugged tight before the gear cools too much and clinches to the shaft... - So, as RoyM says, generally not serviceable.. but if you can find a crank, don't limit your options to only an exact match.

[creia]

Yes, a LONGER PTO end would be fine as I can cut it down. The 5HP cranks I see on eBay have the tapered PTO end (generator application) or the externally threaded end (water pump application), or do not have the extended "snout" for the recoil starter clutch on the mag side. I used to see the one I need for sale (lots of them) years ago but not now.
I am hoping that one of you experienced old timers out there(looking at you Brian! ) might just have a good useable crank that meets my needs sitting in your "bone pile" inventory you would consider selling me for a fair price...
Michael

[38racing]

are you referring to the starter clutch that threads on,has the ears for the screen and ball bearings inside?

[bgsengine]

are you referring to the starter clutch that threads on,has the ears for the screen and ball bearings inside?

Yup that is what he means.

[bgsengine]

Yes, a LONGER PTO end would be fine as I can cut it down. The 5HP cranks I see on eBay have the tapered PTO end (generator application) or the externally threaded end (water pump application), or do not have the extended "snout" for the recoil starter clutch on the mag side. I used to see the one I need for sale (lots of them) years ago but not now.
I am hoping that one of you experienced old timers out there(looking at you Brian! ) might just have a good useable crank that meets my needs sitting in your "bone pile" inventory you would consider selling me for a fair price...
Michael

If you weren't all the way over in California, I'd offer to give you (free) all the old leftover engines I have laying around, but I suspect none of them would have the crank you need either... I'll have to go look again at a couple mower engines, but 3.5 HP cranks aren't what you're after either.. I know for sure I don't have any 5 horse stuff laying around..... But a tip, if you know any oil & gas or construction outfits (or employee of such) that might be big enough to have their own repair shop, it'd be worth contacting them, there's lots of these sort of places that do their own repairs, that may often have a boneyard out back- many of them would probably be happy to let you have whatever you can haul out , of the old stuff (so they don't have to pay for disposal)

But then, I forget, you're in California... Home of the idiots that want to ban the sale of gas powered cars , and then tell people not to charge their tesla! So, might have a hard time finding such a company shop that I mention.....

[38racing]

I may have a 5 hp tiller that's not going to be restored. Not sure what postage for a crank from canada to california will be. Might have a sliding choke carb on it .