Husqvana Blades

[lefty]

YTH22V46
product ID 960450041 00
Serial 052913D034549

I'm looking for high-lift blades for this machine. The blades that are classified as high lift are not quite high lift and look more like mulching blades. I also see the same advertised as medium lift. I was wondering if anyone knew of a true high-lift blade for this machine. If not, is it possible to replace the spindles to accommodate a higher lift blade? The reason I ask is I found a set of blades that are definitely high-lift and would fit as they are very similar. The problem is that they have a 6-point attachment but the spindles are 5 point.

Thanks.

[KE4AVB]

The problem is the six point lobes are MTD design and not an AYP/Husqvarna design. Retro fitting MTD spindles would a major challenge as you must match up everything. I haven't check the spindle pulleys to see they will on the MTD spindles either. I would need to go out to the shop in the morning and compare the four point mount Husqvarna spindles to the MTD four mount spindle to se if they will even fit without deck changes.

On top that MTD 46" two blade system uses 23-1/4" blades where the Husqvarna 46" two system blades are 22-7/8" with the Rotary blade being 23". This probably means the MTD blades will have to shorten

Apparently there is not much of a demand for the Husqvarna 46" cut blades. And I haven't even seen a Husqvarna 46" in my shop in the last 13 yrs according to my records. All near that size have been 48" cuts.

BTW the MTD 46" blades I use here are from Stens and looks like major weapons.

[lefty]

Those are the ones. They certainly look like they can lift some grass. Thanks for the info.

[bgsengine]

Those are the ones. They certainly look like they can lift some grass. Thanks for the info.

If you're looking for high lift blades to stand the grass up straighter, that don't work... nor does it really help prevent any clumping, clogging, etc. (it does a little, but not so much you'd especially notice after the first few cuts and the blades dull, and grass begins clogging areas of least air flow) I've seen mulch mower decks and blades that come through the shop fairly clean, only a little cleanup needed during service... same model of mower from different owner, with aftermarket high lift blades like the ones pictured, deck clogged with dried grass and blade lifts badly worn and about ready to break off...

Difference is in maintenance and owner usage of the machine. The first guy mows more often, for shorter grass clippings, washes off underside of deck and cleans machine best he can after every use, and swaps out his blades for a spare set every couple months (and brings the second set to me for sharpening). The other guy mows only twice a month (or once a month if he can get away with it), mows as fast as he can drive the machine, over bumpy yard, and parks it in shed directly after, and parks himself in front of the bartender the rest of the day... and complains when he has to replace blade sets every year or two.

Moral of the story - It ain't the blades or the deck, it's the owners.

[KE4AVB]

Here i look at the discharge rates for high lift blades for clearing the clippings better.

Looking thru the Oregon catalog they do make one blade with slightly higher air lifts; although, it is only an 1/8 higher but they appear in the image to be a longer version.

Try checking the Oregon 95-370 Heavy Duty blade that is .203 thick vs the standard thickness of .164.

[bgsengine]

Here i look at the discharge rates for high lift blades for clearing the clippings better.

That's pretty much the only benefit to high lift (look for bagger blades, perhaps, as they also use high lift blades) But that is also the reason they try and make it hard to swap out (or stopped making) high lift blades in place of regular or mulch blades - discharge rates (CPSC and all that Govamint crap) which is why those "modern" 3-in-1 mowers (mulch/dicsharge/bagger) actually suck at all 3 jobs. - Higher lift does not let the clippings get mulched very well, but the lifts are generally too low for effective discharge of clippings otherwise... Even with high lift blades, discharge rates will suffer as the deck starts to get clogged with stuck-on grass (which snowballs the more stuck-on it gets) so a lot of it depends on how the customer maintains the mower (and if they maintained it right in the first place, they generally aren't coming to the shop to ask for high lift blades anyway, as the stock blades work pretty well as it is, and the customers that take care of their machines also don't try to cut 6 inch high wet grass every 2 or 3 weeks, but instead will mow as often as twice a week during the peak growing season)

[KE4AVB]

That pretty much sums it up. I never had a problem using mulching with side discharge on my MTD mowers. But did a few customer with ZTR that had to be upgraded to better hi lift blades that factory style didn't work too well. Just did a Gravely that was poor at discharge with OEM blades. I install high lift blade after market designed for the Hustler line that higher and longer air lifts and brought the deck alive when cutting grass; deck doesn't get overloaded like it did before.

[lefty]

Thanks for all the info. This owner is pretty good with maintenance. He bags mostly.

Regarding the same machine, I was trying to install a new steering bushing and I'm having a hell of a time. 532195227

https://photos.app.goo.gl/uX42AQNJRY4gAUSP7

The old one broke while removing, which wasn't a big deal as it was pretty worn out and I'm replacing it. I bought a 2-pack. I can't get this thing to snap into the hole. I removed the gas tank, and engine shroud and can get my hands in there but the fit is tight and there isn't much clearance to swing at it. I've cut up my hands trying to push it in there. It's a tight fit. I'm at a loss and was wondering if anyone had any experience with it or knew any tricks to it. I had to stop for the night out of frustration and was going to go at it with a fresh perspective tomorrow.

The steering shaft comes up at an angle through the plate where the bushing goes and the bushing has the same angle through it. I was thinking of taking a piece of pipe and cutting it at the same angle and then slipping it over the steering shaft to try to put even pressure around the bushing and then wack it with a hammer.



Thanks.

[KE4AVB]

Don't forget the bushing is keyed.

[lefty]

Yes...One of the reasons it's been so difficult. It's difficult to keep it in place with the key lined up and keep the shaft centered while delivering any blow to it because of where it is. It just bounces out of place. I'm thinking if I'm able to apply constant pressure with a pipe or something and deliver a more even and gentle blow to it, I'll have better luck. I've also lubed it up a bit hoping it helps. All I know is I definitely priced this one wrong. How hard could it be?...I thought to myself. It's just a little plastic bushing.